Alaska Highway 

FA:  Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.11c/d [details] Length:  5 pitches, 550 feet, Grade III Season:  Summer Views: 229 page views Submitted By: David Trippett on Jul 21, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Alaska Highway. 

Alaska Highway ascends an imposing system of overhanging corners and chimneys...

When arriving at the belay after the second pitch, try and recall if you've done aid pitches that took as long to finish, then think of Steve "Roadie" Seats soloing this pitch.

This route deserves its reputation. Not so much because p2 is the hardest pitch you'll ever climb, but because few pitches will challenge your repertoire of crack trickery as this. Improv at its finest.


Pitch one begins with some steep arboreal fiddling to a hanging belay below a roof. Many fixed nuts. Scruffy. 10d

Pull into the powerful traversing undercling and onto a sloping ledge. Did you think it was over?...bwahahahaha! Continue up the steeply overhanging groove/chimney. Get ready robot chicken...old break-dance videos may have prepared you for this pitch. Something like this.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zwjvOJhJV48
11c/d

The third pitch may be the best 5.11a in town. 35m of steep laybacking and finger locks are rewarded by a traverse to a stump/gear belay. 11a

Layback on great finger locks to a chimney/off-width and on to a ledge after some face moves.10c

A thin n' crimpy seam leads to a crux hand traverse. Face climb to the ledge. You're done. 11a


Three raps from the last anchor will get you back down to the ground. Pay attention to the third, and final, station way out (climbers) right...it's easy to miss. Walk down a steep trail from a treed ledge to the start. Go drink a beer.



If you can finish "The Calling" after this; it's official, you're fit.

Many belay bolts need to be replaced and repositioned IMO. Any volunteers?

Location 

North Walls. Approach via Angels Crest and cut left across the scree of the north gully at a cairn by the start of The Crest. Walk 30m past Astrologger and thrutch up some dirty, loose blocks and a ratty fixed line.

Protection 

Gear to #3 Camalot, doubles from .5 to #2. 2 green and yellow aliens each and a selection of medium stoppers. 8 long runners.

2 60m ropes for descent. Can also be descended by foot to the North-North Gulley