BETA PHOTO: The final moves on the last pitch that lead to the...
Description
Cruel Shoes weaves a wandering path up the lower face of the Chief, conveniently ending at the base of the Split Pillar. An excellent route in its own right, it also provides a great, all-free way to access the Grand Wall. Expect amazing, consistent pitches of technical face climbing at the 5.10 level, good mixed pro, and immaculate rock. Enough can't be said about this awesome climb.
P1: Begin at the base of the Chief in the corner just right of Apron Strings. Ascend the corner via stemming and chimneying to a belay high up in the corner at a stance. 5.10b. Alternatively, climb the first pitch of Apron Strings (10b), a higher quality pitch up the face to the left of the corner to the same belay.
P2: Continue up the corner briefly before traversing right out onto the face and up a steep, bolted crux section. Continue on to a belay. 5.10d.
P3: Traverse almost straight right for half a ropelength to the base of a right-facing, right-leaning corner system. The final moves around and into this corner are difficult for the grade, but the pitch is reasonably well-protected for both the leader and second. 5.10b.
P4: Ascend the sustained leaning corner to a point where one can exit out left and up to a belay on a ledge. 5.10c.
P5: There are two variations. One heads relatively straight up from the belay past some bolts at 5.10, the other traverses left and then up through a roof at 5.9. Both are somewhat run out in places but not deserving of the R rating. An excellent pitch.
P6: The final pitch is the crux. Climb up and right via a very thin crescent-like corner. Eventually the route trends almost straight back left to the ledge at the base of the Split Pillar. This pitch is entirely bolted and well-protected. 5.10d.
Rap with two ropes or continue on.
Along with Fiddler on the Roof in Red Rocks, Nevada, Birds of Fire in Rocky Mountain National Park, and Stoner's Highway in Yosemite, Cruel Shoes rounds out a quartet of absolutely classic North American multipitch face climbs all checking in at around 5.10+.
Protection
Light rack through a #1 Camalot (Apron Strings requires extra finger-sized gear)
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Aug 19, 2007 rating: 5.10d R
Wowzers... great climb! But you better put your dancing shoes on!
The first chimney/crack pitch is fun, and one set of cams and nuts worked out... though it didn't look promising at first. We placed a #2 and #3 camalot on this pitch, so I might recommend a full set of cams from TCUs to #3 camalot. The second pitch transition from the chimney to the slab climbing got my attention. The 10d crux on this pitch felt soft, provided you clip the bolt and step down a ways before comitting to the the moves. This pitch has fairly reasonable protection. The 10b traversing pitch is full value - for both leader and follower. As Josh mentions, it is reasonably well protected but that doesn't mean the traversing falls would be fun and this adds a bit of creep factor to the pitch. The final move on this pitch (literally right before the chains) felt fricken' hard to me and my partner. The 10c corner pitch was technical, but has pretty good protection between the bolts and occasional pieces of gear. We followed the guidebook and belayed at the bolted anchor slightly right of the crack. My partner and I both felt the next pitch was runout. It may be only 5.9, but there are plenty of places where a fall would result in injury. By far the most serious pitch of the route in our opinion. Scary moves up and left of the belay lead to the first bolt. We followed the guidebook and moved left and up into 5.8/5.9 terrain that is sparsely protected. A final bolt sees you to the anchor. The final crux pitch is very closely bolted and has great, technical movement up the steepening slab. I agree with the guidebook that the crux of this pitch is reachy.
The climb ends at the base of the Split Pillar... either continue on or double rope rap straight down via descent anchors (3 double rope raps to the ground).
P. 5 the 5.9 part definitely has a bad fall potential, and I think warrants the R, you do NOT want to fall, you would hit a slab, but it is not that bad, the moves get easier as you get further out from your gear. Just a friendly heads up...
Grand Wall Area
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