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Wonderland 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 125'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: R. Barley, P. Shakleton, C. Murrell
Page Views: 2,850
Submitted By: ScottH on May 31, 2008

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A unique view of Wonderland.

Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a wild and exposed line that traverses above the height of the wall area. Begin on a ledge left of the Jabberwocky anchor, and hand traverse a finger/hand crack up and left across the void. Pull up onto a bulge and move left through stellar moves on a series of flakes. Traverse around the corner as the crack widens, then climb a short section of fist crack to the anchor. Savor the view. A unique and highly worthwhile pitch.

Location 

Walk left from the Pixie corner area, or arrive at the base while doing the Smoke Bluff Connection.

Protection 

Gear to 3-4", primarily finger and hand size pieces. I had two #3 camalots and was pleased to have them near the end of the pitch.


Photos of Wonderland Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking around the corner from the bolted belay at...
BETA PHOTO: Looking around the corner from the bolted belay at...
Rock Climbing Photo: fun airy traverse
fun airy traverse

Comments on Wonderland Add Comment
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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 19, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Rad pitch. The feet are WAY slick coming off the belay. Be nice to your second and place gear.

This pitch is a little more heady than your typical Smoke Bluffs 5.9. Good stuff.

The ending is cool, but unless you want to really piss off your second DO NOT PLACE GEAR in the final (easy) vertical 3-4" crack. This allows you to flip the rope over the final crux directly under the belay. Placing gear in the final crack will create MASSIVE rope drag and leave your second open to a horrible fall. And accidents have happened here when people have placed gear and their second fell. For short people, the final crux is pretty tricky as they can't reach the critical feet.

If you don't intend to place gear in the final crack, you only need one #3 camalot at most for the pitch.
By EMT
Oct 7, 2009

one of my favorite pitches at the bluffs! Definitely not your average bluffs 5.9...
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Oct 14, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This pitch is fucking rad. Do it. Save some big gear for the end, and bring a sling or two for rope drag. Excellent though, one of the best lines I did all summer.

This is the link to the other Wonderland page from the Wall Area mountainproject.com/v/internat... (I guess because it's part of the Smoke Bluff Connection?)
By Mark van Eijk
Sep 2, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Agreed, a total blast and worthy outing. The final traversing moves will probably feel more tenuous for climbers with shorter legs. Saving one or two hand-sized pieces for this section will definitely take some of the sting out for the follower (#3 camalot is ideal but 2 or 4 will work) If you decide to protect the short and easy vertical crack at the end, use generous runners or be prepared for horrific rope drag. Thrilling exposure and outstanding moves at the grade, do it!
By Adrian Lazar
Jul 9, 2012

The anchors at the top were either removed or I couldn't find them ... It's easy to build a gear or tree anchor.
By steverett
From: San Diego, CA
Apr 5, 2016

This is a duplicate of the route page Mark posted; they should be merged or one deleted.
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Apr 13, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Done.

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