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This is a wild and exposed line that traverses above the height of the wall area. Begin on a ledge left of the Jabberwocky anchor, and hand traverse a finger/hand crack up and left across the void. Pull up onto a bulge and move left through stellar moves on a series of flakes. Traverse around the corner as the crack widens, then climb a short section of fist crack to the anchor. Savor the view. A unique and highly worthwhile pitch.
Walk left from the Pixie corner area, or arrive at the base while doing the Smoke Bluff Connection.
Gear to 3-4", primarily finger and hand size pieces. I had two #3 camalots and was pleased to have them near the end of the pitch.
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Aug 19, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rad pitch. The feet are WAY slick coming off the belay. Be nice to your second and place gear.
This pitch is a little more heady than your typical Smoke Bluffs 5.9. Good stuff.
The ending is cool, but unless you want to really piss off your second DO NOT PLACE GEAR in the final (easy) vertical 3-4" crack. This allows you to flip the rope over the final crux directly under the belay. Placing gear in the final crack will create MASSIVE rope drag and leave your second open to a horrible fall. And accidents have happened here when people have placed gear and their second fell. For short people, the final crux is pretty tricky as they can't reach the critical feet.
If you don't intend to place gear in the final crack, you only need one #3 camalot at most for the pitch.
Oct 7, 2009
one of my favorite pitches at the bluffs! Definitely not your average bluffs 5.9...