Warrior Way 

FA:  Cliff & Craig Jirka, Andy Dannerbeck, rick d 7/93 New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad, Aid, Alpine Consensus:  5.10- A2 [details] Length:  5 pitches, 700 feet Views: 89 page views Submitted By: rickd on Apr 22, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

left of Tom Egan Memorial is a left facing corner about 1 pitch up that angles up and right ultimately joining Tom Egan.

p1 climb broken ledges until able to reach the corner, mostly free 5.10-.
p2 climb the corner (mostly aid) until possible to switch to a crack on the right wall. belay on exposed "seat" (2 ropes fixed to glacier).
p3 climb a steep crack (kb's) to a bolt ladder through a bulge ending on a ledge/alcove.
I'll have to add more once I talk to the other bro's- 15 years does tricks to the mind. Cliff and Craig did the last pitch and came down leaving a topo at the hut. I'll post slides photos asap.

Location 

looking from the Applebee campground, the route is on the right side of the wall. Broken ledges lead off the glacier to a ramp like corner system trending up and right. You can also spot the two dihedrals pointing up eventually joining each other (near the mini shield type headwall of Tom Egan).

Protection 

standard rack plus 20 pins, mostly small