Alex on the 5.12b on the upper tier of Leonard Coh...
Description
This is an as-of-yet unpublished area just south of the Rehabilitation Project Crag developed by Tyrone Brett.
It's fairly small but the six or so routes make for a good day, especially when it's raining as most of the routes stay dry, if they were reasonably dry to start with. That's how we ended up there, all the rainy-day routes in Chek were busy.
The route names are noted discreetly at the base of the cliff, but I forgot to write them down. They are all the names of Leonard Cohen songs.
Getting There
The highway construction may have changed everything (it changes week-by-week), but here goes:
1. Park as for Chek. You may have to drive up the road a bit if the lower area is full.
2. Cross the highway (be very careful, it curves here and there are very fast cars heading to and from Whistler).
3. Walk south about 200 feet where theres a clearing by the side of the road.
4. Look for a flagged trail that enters the woods.
5. Enter the trail and follow it as it curves south.
6. After 10 or 15 minutes you should see a wall on your right that contains some projects. A little further down you'll walk under the main wall which has about three routes.
7. If you keep walking and curve around the south side of the main wall and walk uphill, you'll come to an upper tier that has at least three routes.
The Routes
Until I go back, or check the new route book at Climb On in Squamish, or the routes get published I'll list what I remember here.
Lower Tier: 3 routes, the one on the right is a high-quality 10d that stays dry in the rain.
Upper Tier, from left to right: 11b/c: starts just right of prominent black streak, good technical climbing
12b: high quality granite sport route, big, powerful moves, lots of body tension. There appears to be an extension finish that looks considerably harder.
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