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Unfinished Symphony 

5.11b

   

FA: 
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
Length: 6 pitches, 800 feet
Season: Quick to Dry
Views: 652 page views

Submitted By: Scott W on Mar 17, 2008


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5.9 Corner, before the business


Description 

This is one of the better routes in Squamish, it follows up a two 5.9/10a pitches, then back to back 10d layback pitches with a mix of bolts and gear. Then a 5.11b slab, very well bolted throughout the crux, then the bolts turn a little homemade and well spaced for the last 30 feet, though significantly easier than the crux. Classic!!!


Location 

This is the next corner left of Dedre, it can by found via the same approach, but stopping 100 feet shy of the Dedre starting slab. Follow a ramp up and left to the first pitch 5.7.


Protection 

Rack of cams up to 1", double up on small stuff up to a yellow alien.



Photos of Unfinished Symphony Slideshow Add Photo
2nd 10d pitch

2nd 10d pitch

The Crux

The Crux

Homemade bolts for sure...and not very new...

Homemade bolts for sure...and not very new...

Simon following the fourth pitch (10a) of Unfinished Symphony.

Simon following the fourth pitch (10a) of Unfinish...


Comments on Unfinished Symphony Add Comment
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By tradcragrat
Aug 21, 2008

The crux pitch has been retro-bolted; formerly it featured bad bolts on 5.10-ish terrain, it is now safe. There are, however, some difficult clips in the very thin crux section. The 10d layback pitches require a lot of small gear to protect adequately; there are some bolts on both pitches, but gear is needed in between. An alternate start links up the first two pitches of "Dirty White Boys" to join the route at the third pitch. Note that if you do the first 5.7 pitch of Snake, it is more than 60 meters so belay after the section of ledge scrambling. Awesome route with beautiful climbing.