Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>
There is an excellent parking lot available (thanks to the BC Climbers Access Society, I believe), but people continue to park in the residential areas anyway.
Kevin TR rope-soloing Didly Squat, 2004.
Description
This climb starts hard right off the ground and consists of cranking up a flaring seam that provides no good locks or feet. The wall steep and the crack angles awkwardly. At about halfway, you pull around the arete to the left and continue on the type of bulging slab that characterizes so many routes at the Smoke Bluffs. The grade drops to low 5.10 once you're on the arete.
Location
The is the obvious seam on the face left of the route Pixie Corner.
Protection
I didn't lead it so take this with a grain of salt, but small stoppers and micro cams are likely necessary near the bottom. I believe that some bolts appear as the seam dies out and you move over to the arete.