Buckingham Route (easy version) 

FA:  Buckingham, Gues, Page, and Wipple 1958 Type:  Trad, Alpine Consensus:  5.8 [details] Length:  8 pitches, 1100 feet, Grade IV Views: 172 page views Submitted By: Dr. Evil on Dec 9, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: First pitch of the Buckingham route on Snowpatch S...

Description 

This version of the Buckingham route doesn't go all the way to the summit of Snowpatch, but has climbing only up to 5.8.

The climb ascends the far north side of the west face of Snowpatch Spire. The route faces NW and can be cold. It is recommended as a good introduction to Bugaboo rock, but although the climbing is fairly easy it is more loose and less aesthetic than other Bugaboo climbs

Start at top of the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col. Head up the face for about 70m (usually done in 2 pitches) to gain a large scoop/depression feature that heads up and left. After about 3 more pitches, the depression ends at a dihedral system. Climb out right (not directly up the gorgeous dihedral) and follow flakes and chimneys parallel to the ridge for a couple long pitches (5.7). Stay left of the large black pinnacle. The last pitch leaves from a ledge system: look for two bolts to the left that protect 5.8 slab moves up the face to the top of the tower.

Rappel the route with 2 ropes from fixed anchors. As of August 2007 not all the anchors were in great shape - consider bringing gear or webbing to improve some of the anchors. Also beware of the many rope-eating flakes when rappelling.

Location 

This climb ascends the far north side of the west face of Snowpatch Spire. The route faces NW and can be cold. Start at top of the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col.

The start of the climbing is not incredibly obvious - see the beta photo to see what the first pitch looks like.

Protection 

A standard trad rack is fine. There are fixed anchors in many places along the route, including the top of the tower. Two bolts on the last pitch protect the crux moves.

Add Photo Photos of Buckingham Route (easy version)

Working up weaknesses on the second half of the Bu...	Rappelling the Buckingham route, near the halfway ...	BETA PHOTO: View of the Buckingham Route on Snowpatch Spire (p...