The start of Surfs Up. It's easy to wander around ...
Description
The lower part of the route is not great, with somewhat gravelly granite, limited protection, and uninteresting climbing.
Traverse right from the bay (top of pitch 3) to reach Surfs Up ledge. I believe some people get lost here and do the inferior Surfs Up Direct.
The crack pitches above Surfs Up ledge are excellent, and make the route worthwhile.
Overall, a good route, and perhaps a bit soft at 5.9. Avoid the alpine start, as it's pretty cold over there until the sun hits the route.
Location
Located on the far right (south) side of the west face of Snowpatch Spire, and well described in the guidebooks. Descend via the Kraus-McCarthy rappel route (chain anchors). Four 60m or eight 30m rappels reach the bottom. If rapping with a single 60m rope, a couple of the rappels are rope stretchers so be careful and be sure to knot the ends of your rope.
Protection
A standard rack will do (set of cams, nuts). An extra 1" piece may be useful but not necessary.
Description
The lower part of the route is not great, with somewhat gravelly granite, limited protection, and uninteresting climbing.
Traverse right from the bay (top of pitch 3) to reach Surfs Up ledge. I believe some people get lost here and do the inferior Surfs Up Direct.
The crack pitches above Surfs Up ledge are excellent, and make the route worthwhile.
Overall, a good route, and perhaps a bit soft at 5.9. Avoid the alpine start, as it's pretty cold over there until the sun hits the route.
Location
Located on the far right (south) side of the west face of Snowpatch Spire, and well described in the guidebooks. Descend via the Kraus-McCarthy rappel route (chain anchors). Four 60m or eight 30m rappels reach the bottom. If rapping with a single 60m rope, a couple of the rappels are rope stretchers so be careful and be sure to knot the ends of your rope.
Protection
A standard rack will do (set of cams, nuts). An extra 1" piece may be useful but not necessary.
Snowpatch Spire
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