Ascend a steep 10a crack on the face above some blocks and past an intermediate anchor. Traverse to a stance below a right leaning splitter finger crack on the headwall. A short, but thin and technical crux(12a) lies above. Fight on to the chains. Watch for the rope getting stuck in the crack to the left of the mid-height ledge.
Do "Sentry Box Direct" for, in my opinion, a better, more sustained version, but beware of the difficult gear placements. There is serious ground fall potential in the first 10m of this variation.
Location
Nightmare rock is at Murrin Park
Protection
singles to #2 Camalot,doubles of yellow and green aliens, stoppers.
By Peter Spindloe Administrator From: North Vancouver, BC Nov 27, 2007
I believe that this is the route shown on the cover of the Squamish Select guidebook. It looks spectacular, but I think I need to lead Crime of the Century cleanly first.
Great route. For the crux, you either need to have small fingers or be tall. I only toproped the direct start, but it is very cool. Pro on it is mostly incipient blue and yellow TCU's, with one fixed piton for the crux.
Nightmare Rock
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