P1 climbs the obvious but somewhat awkward crack to a bolted anchor (10b).
P2 continues up and right on very fun cracks to the left facing dihedral. Face holds, good locks and good protection take you up the dihedral past one crux to the top crux which requires some solid stemming, and while the protection right at the crux isn't as good as the rest of the route, there are bomber placements about five feet lower.
Location
Right side of the Grand Wall base, just right of Arrowroot.
Protection
Standard Squamish rack for P1 to a bolted anchor.
For P2, a good selection of stoppers from small (but not micro) to large. You can place many stoppers so bring enough slings or draws. You'll also want a good selection of small cams and at least a 1 and 2 camalot. I'm told that a green alien is good at the top crux, but I didn't have one so I'm not sure.
Thanks to extra anchors to climber's left, the rappel from the top can be done with a single 70m and probably a single 60 (but not certain).
pitch 2 is the money pitch if you ask me. starts out as twin cracks going up and right that will take you to the start of the long corner you can see from the ground. This is where it gets real good, climb the corner via thin liebacking and smearing to a cruxy 11a move at the very top of the corner moving left to gain the anchors. two ropes nesecary for rappel from the top of pitch two, not sure if a 70m would be long enough, to the top of pitch one. then a single rope rap to the ground. great climb!
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Jun 30, 2008 rating: 5.10+
Good first pitch (10b, 34 meters, 2-stars), great second pitch (10d, 45 meters, 4-stars). I didn't think the crux was the very end, I though it was 1/2 way up the dihedral of the second pitch in some thin feet. There are 'new' rap anchors down from the top anchor and you can descend on a single 60M rope in 3 raps. Twins still require at least 2 raps, as you are ~80 meters up.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Aug 15, 2008 rating: 5.10c
Fabulous route. Felt pretty soft to me, even by Squamish standards. A green C3 protected the final moves perfectly. P2 is a long pitch that can take as many finger sized cams/nuts you can throw at it. Save a #2 and #0.75 camalot for the final third.
Grand Wall Base Area
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