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Mt. Robson Kane Face



Mt. Robson Kane Face


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Submitted By: Michael Catlett on Sep 11, 2007
Administrator: Peter Spindloe
Latitude: 53.1019  Longitude: -119.1316 
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BETA PHOTO: Crossing the ice fall at the Robson/Resplendent Co...


Description 

Remote climbing with low odds for success given the weather, snow conditions and logistics. Still once you get your shot, moderate to steep snow and ice climbing up the Kane Face and then moderate climbing up snow and ice faces and around gargoyles of ice leads to a large summit with a small summit bump.

If you think getting up is tough, getting down can be a job once the Kane Face softens and becomes very hazardous to downclimb. Be prepared to sit it out till the sun goes down and the freeze comes to stabilize the face. Do not underestimate the decent.

It is all worth it!


Getting There 

You can approach on foot all the way from Berg Lake to the Dome, or fly into the Extinguisher and then travel over glacier to the Kain Face camp at the Dome. Take the time to climb Mount Resplendent before taking on the ice fall of the Resplendent/Robson glacier.

This can be bypassed by climbing the ridge above the ice fall and working your way back to the glacier once you overcome the ice fall. It worked well coming down, with 4th and 5th class scrambling and a few raps, so I am sure it will work going up though there likely will be 5th class climbing for short sections.



Photos of Mt. Robson Kane Face Slideshow Add Photo
Near the ice fall at the Robson/Resplendent col.

BETA PHOTO: Near the ice fall at the Robson/Resplendent col.

Camp near the Extinguisher, the location the chopper dropped us off and picked us up.  I have heard the climb up from Berg Lake is a killer and while Suspected Alpine Climbs of the Rockies says it one day from Berg Lake to the Dome, guides tell me it is one long and hard day from Berg Lake to here.

BETA PHOTO: Camp near the Extinguisher, the location the chopp...

Robson and the Kane Face in the distance.  The ridge to the left was descended to avoid the ice fall.

Robson and the Kane Face in the distance. The rid...

Snow and rock along the ridge decent from the Kane Face climb to bypass the ice fall.  Easy going snow and ice and loose 4th and 5th class rock are typical.

BETA PHOTO: Snow and rock along the ridge decent from the Kane...

The Kane Face from camp at the saddle between "The Dome" and Robson.

BETA PHOTO: The Kane Face from camp at the saddle between "The...

The upper slopes of Robson

BETA PHOTO: The upper slopes of Robson

The rising sun from the slopes above the Kane Face.

BETA PHOTO: The rising sun from the slopes above the Kane Face...

Crossing the summit plateau on the way to the true summit.

Crossing the summit plateau on the way to the true...

Gargoyles-a-plenty.  Down climbing slopes below the summit.  These slopes are not on the route proper!

BETA PHOTO: Gargoyles-a-plenty. Down climbing slopes below th...

Climbers approaching the summit from the ridge and slopes above the Kane Face.

BETA PHOTO: Climbers approaching the summit from the ridge and...

Looking down a well baked Kane Face at the camp on the saddle.  Beware of unstable snow in the afternoon and be prepared to wait till dark for stable snow.

BETA PHOTO: Looking down a well baked Kane Face at the camp on...


Comments on Mt. Robson Kane Face Add Comment
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By John Peterson
Aug 31, 2008

Very nice photos but shouldn't this be somewhere else? It's not in Alberta or Jasper National Park. Probably move this to British Columbia -> Mt Robson Provincial Park -> Mt Robson -> Kane Face.

By Peter Spindloe
Administrator
From: North Vancouver, BC
Sep 2, 2008

John, quite right -- I moved it to BC for now. My one attempt on Robson in 1998 hasn't left me with enough detail to feel like I could do the area justice. If you, or anyone else, could add either the park or the peak, I can rearrange the location again.