Stefanie's Tears 

FA:  Glenn Payan, John Thomson Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9 [details] Length:  2 pitches, 150 feet Views: 196 page views Submitted By: ScottH on Sep 7, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Access issues at the Lower Malamute. MORE INFO >>> Much of the Lower Malamute falls into CN Rail's right-of-way. More accurately, the starts of many of the climbs fall into this region. See this link for more details: http://www.access-society.ca/regions/squamish/areas/lower-ma>>>>> Also, see Kevin McLane's 2006 edition of his Squamish Guidbook to see a image of what is and isn't accessible. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Stefanie's Tears is a sweet little 2 pitch climb right of High Mountain Woody. A small step up in difficulty and more sustained than that route, but well within the grasp of anyone leading HMW.

P1. Scramble up past the tree stump into a left-angling finger crack. Clip the first bolt on Neighbourhood Bully and move right (tricky and fun), finishing up the arete. Nice exposure and committing moves take you to a bolted belay on View Ledge. 5.9

P2. Climb the obvious corner crack above. There are certainly many ways to do this, but it is a fun layback. 5.8

Location 

Stefanie's Tears climbs the rightmost crack on the Starr Wall. Descend to the best of HMW via your method of choice, then scramble down the ledge another 20 feet to a finger crack above a flake and cedar stump. This is the start of Stefanie's Tears, Gonch Pull, and Neighbourhood Bully.

Protection 

Gear to 1". A double or two around .5 or .75 camalot is nice for the second pitch, but not needed. Bolted anchors.