Blazing Saddles 

FA:  Mike Beaubien, John Simpson, Perry Beckham 1982 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10b [details] Length:  2 pitches, 200 feet Season:  Spring, Summer, Fall Views: 166 page views Submitted By: Andy Laakmann on Aug 22, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Leading the first pitch. The twin cracks leading ...

Description 

This climb is usually approached via the first two pitches of Borderline (5.10b, 5.8).

P1 - 5.10a - From the big treed ledge (aka The Terrace), head up the left facing corner on the far left side. A few moves of 5.9 laybacking lead to a stemmy/chimneyish exit move. Bolted anchor.

P2 - 5.10b - The money pitch. This thing is SWEET. Continue up the corner and make some moves over, on, and around the big, scary flake. This flake isn't going to last forever, and it'll be a bad day when it falls. Work the two parallel cracks (one is 3-5" and the other is 1-2") up the leaning wall until at the roof. The cracks offer excellent jamming, but the entire face leans to the right which significantly increases the pump! Undercling out the roof (green camalots) and pull the roof (crux) to another 10-15 feet of thin jamming. I didn't have a green camalot available when pulling the roof and was unhappy about it..... Bolted anchor.

Location 

Far left side of The Terrace below the Sheriff's badge. Usually approached via the first two pitches of Borderline.

Rappel the route with one or two ropes.

Protection 

Nuts and two sets of cams from #0.5-#3 camalot. You might want to throw in an extra green and red camalots, as the crack is mainly 1-2".

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BETA PHOTO: The ride, to the roof.

Pulling the Roof