Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>
There is an excellent parking lot available (thanks to the BC Climbers Access Society, I believe), but people continue to park in the residential areas anyway.
Unknown climber in the middle of a mini-epic on Su...
Description
Lots of action here. Start with an undercling traverse left (~5.9). Then up a pretty easy left facing corner until you can traverse right to a series of bolts which diagonal up and right. Face climb past the bolts (10-) with a long clip at the 3rd or 4th. After the bolts, follow a crack until it seems easier to move right to a parallel crack; switching cracks is the crux. Follow this crack to the top where you can either traverse right to a set of anchors or belay from a power tower support cable. At the start be conscious of future rope drag when placing your gear.
A 70M rope is required to lower from the fixed anchors, but I believe one can rap from here w/ a 60M, though I not sure so tie your rope ends together and use your own judgement.
Location
The left most climb on the west facing portion of Boulder Gully. Start below the right end of a small arch.
Protection
Standard Squamish rack, small nuts to hand size cams. Some long slings and/or double ropes.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Aug 19, 2007 rating: 5.10c
Awesome, well protected climb with a super short approach. The upper cracks protects perfectly. To avoid rope drag, use long slings on the pieces at the undercling, and if you must place a piece on the left side (after completing the undercling) - use a double length sling. That's what I did and the rope drag was manageable. I didn't notice any hard parts on the twin cracks up top, and thought the crux was the bolted portion. Gear to #2 camalot (I placed two of them). I placed two #1 camalots. (one to protect the second on the final move).
This climb is the most fun you can legally have while (basically) in a public parking lot. Backclean your gear out of the small left-facing corner or use double ropes.
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