BETA PHOTO: Picture showing bolts (circled) and the crimpy sec...
Description
Exacerbation is the fully bolted route on the wall below and Left of the two cracks, it is very easy to find as the trail to the bluff comes out directly beneath it. It is the bolted arete left of the finger-crack with the roof at the top. It starsts in a small crack by the tree below the climb and moves into a mantle on a tiny ledge. Once you are standing on the ledge and have clipped to first bolt (above and left of ledge,DO NOT GO RIGHT you will end up in the finger crack/small roof) you have to traverse left on a series of tiny crimps, this is the crux. You have no footholds at all and the moves on the crimps should probably be done as quickly as possible in order not to spend time hanging on to the crimps and tiring out your forearms. At the end of the crimps you clip the next bolt and follow the bolts up the slabby arete to the top. I think that if you can pull the traverse without getting too pumped the arete is fairly simple to climb as long as you make sure you dont start to slide down the sloping footholds on the arete. Follow the bolts and do no go Left onto the face as it is an entirely different route. At the top of the arete clip the final bolts from a nice ledge and rappel or get lowered down.
Location
Exacerbation is very easy to find, take the trail to the Harrison Bluffs (directions on the bluffs page) and the trail should bring you directly to the base of the climb. Insomnia is the arete on the left NOT the dihedral/roof on the right!
Protection
Exacerbation is protected by five bolts and the final anchors. The first bolt can be somewhat tricky to reach for a shorter person and they may wish to stick clip it. It can also be top roped by hiking halfway up the trail Left of the two cracks and turing left to the tree above the route.
RSS Feed
