This crag is on a fire road on which local homeowners pay the city a lease or use fee of some sort. The homeowners are of the opinion that this grants them exclusive use of the road. While that may or may or not be true, they act on that belief and have cars towed and confront users.
The crag itself is on public land, so there's no problem with the climbing itself. Work is underway to clarify the road situation. In the mean time, best ways to approach the crag are (more details in the "Getting There" section: 1. park on Indian River Drive before the fire roads begin and bike in and out (and haul your bikes up the trail a bit). 2. Drive in and drop everyone off except the driver, then the driver can drive back out and bike back in.
Description
For the grade, this is a toughie to on-sight. It has the benefit of starting gently (not common on this cliff), but that's about it. About halfway up there's a horizontal break that provides the potential for an ankle-breaking fall when moving above it, and the moves above the break get very awkward on hard-to-find holds.
There is a variation called Mid-Life Crisis that moves right at the break into the upper portion of Arts and Krafts. This variation is a much better route according to Rolf.
Senior Centre
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