This crag is on a fire road on which local homeowners pay the city a lease or use fee of some sort. The homeowners are of the opinion that this grants them exclusive use of the road. While that may or may or not be true, they act on that belief and have cars towed and confront users.
The crag itself is on public land, so there's no problem with the climbing itself. Work is underway to clarify the road situation. In the mean time, best ways to approach the crag are (more details in the "Getting There" section: 1. park on Indian River Drive before the fire roads begin and bike in and out (and haul your bikes up the trail a bit). 2. Drive in and drop everyone off except the driver, then the driver can drive back out and bike back in.
Rolf at the top of Slice of Life.
Description
It's hard to imagine a more fun sport climb in the 5.10 grade, hence it's a classic. The first few moves are the crux, but the rest of the route is long, steep and involves physical pulls between good, sometimes excellent, holds.
Location
This route is roughly in the middle of the crag and starts just left of the little hand-line-assisted scramble up to the terrace on the right side of the crag. The topo linked on the area page isn't quite accurate on the location of the hand-line.
Protection
7 or 8 draws plus a two bolt anchor. There aren't rap rings or chains on this one, but you can traverse over to the route to the right (Shuffle-Board Demon) which does have rap rings.
Senior Centre
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