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Up Among the Firs
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A Little Testis 
Poster Boy 
Wicker Cranium 
Zazert 

A Little Testis 

5.10b

   

FA: Glen Payan, Jeff Thomson, 1997
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10b/c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 307 page views

Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Apr 22, 2007


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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The lower section of A Little Testis - casual jamm...


Description 

Visit Up Among the Firs for this climb, stay for the other climbs. Start up a fairly easy corner, a few awkward moves in a flaring crack lead to a beautiful left facing corner crack.


Location 

The trail that takes you to Up Among the Firs pretty much exits in front of a feature called "The Pie" as there are cracks that section the face the way a pie would be cut into six pieces. The right side of this area is bounded by a big left facing corner which hosts this climb.


Protection 

Medium nuts and cams will get you through the initial corner and flare. The upper crack takes hand sized gear, but note that it widens a bit inside, so choose your gear wisely: what enters the crack may tip out once it's inside. Don't let that comment worry you too much, the protection is excellent.



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The upper corner of A Little Testis

The upper corner of A Little Testis


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By david goldstein
Aug 12, 2007

I think this pitch is overhyped and overrated. I thought Wicker Cranium was a lot more value for the grade.

By JSH
Administrator
Sep 2, 2007

BETA ALERT >> I was told that the crux was the awkward bulge, and that the upper corner was easy. Handcrack in a corner sounded right up my alley - but, after cruising the lower bulge, I blew the onsight above, pumped out in the upper corner. It's easier than the bulge, but - not by that much, and it's steeper than it looks!

Loved the pitch.