Paul's Crack 

FA:  Glenn Payan, Paul Starr, 1995 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10a [details] Length:  1 pitch, 80 feet Views: 244 page views Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Apr 19, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Access issues at the Lower Malamute. MORE INFO >>> Much of the Lower Malamute falls into CN Rail's right-of-way. More accurately, the starts of many of the climbs fall into this region. See this link for more details: http://www.access-society.ca/regions/squamish/areas/lower-ma>>>>> Also, see Kevin McLane's 2006 edition of his Squamish Guidbook to see a image of what is and isn't accessible. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Joanne starting up Paul's Crack on a cool windy da...

Description 

This good route has a finger crack crux in the first ten feet and fun but easier climbing above.

Location 

Just left of High Mountain Woody, but starting from a terrace fifty or sixty feet higher than the start of HMW. The easier approach is probably to just rappel in since the trail takes you to the top and there is an easily accessible bolted (two bolts, no chains or rings but they aren't necessary). Alternatively you could continue north along the top of the crag, drop down a level between "Smell of Nuprin" and "Remembrance Day", then walk south until a fixed hand line will take you down to the starting terrace.

Note that McLane's guidebook has a wee typo relevant to the second approach described above. Remembrance Day is listed as route 385, but the line on the topo is labeled 365. 365 is correctly labelled elsewhere as a Lower Malamute route.

Protection 

Finger sized nuts or cams for the start. A small selection of larger nuts and hand sized cams for the rest.