Also, see Kevin McLane's 2006 edition of his Squamish Guidbook to see a image of what is and isn't accessible.
Looking south from the belay on Paul's Crack, clim...
Description
This classic crack offers some excellent crack climbing with some of the most amazing views in Squamish. The 5.8/5.9 crux is right at the bottom, it's all smooth sailing from there.
Location
Hike to the top of the Mallamut formation straight across the road from the Chief campground. Find a series of belay anchros at the top of the cliff. Rappel (Double rope!) to a large ledge at the base of the climb.
This is a nice climb and refreshingly long. It's about 45m, but seems like it keeps going and going. I don't think gear larger than a #2 Camalot is really necessary. There are possibilities for larger placements, but there is typically something smaller nearby.
It's possible to access the base of the climb with a single rope by hiking (or rapping, but why bother) to the base of Paul's Crack (described for that route), then making a short rappel to the base of HWM.
If you get the chance, rap back down and hit up Slap and Tickle just to the right - its good, but save some small TCU's to protect a high crux traverse.
Malamute
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