By Peter Spindloe Administrator From: North Vancouver, BC Apr 30, 2007
This is a great climb, but not to be mistaken for a sport climb despite the gear list. The first pitch is often done on its own, and as such it's probably a 10b sport climb with bigger gaps between bolts than usual, but it's a shame to miss the rest. The remaining two pitches are considerably more runout, although the crux on P2 is well protected.
I believe there was a photo of this climb one edition of one of John Long's books and the caption referenced it as an example of runout climbing. Can anyone confirm that and clarify where I saw this?
There is a photo of "Local Boys" in John Long's Sport Climbing 3rd edition. It is featured in the slab climbing chapter within the Harrowing Runout section.
I love this climb and have led the first and second pitches several times but the third runout pitch only once. (But the memory will last a life time!)
By the way, the 3rd pitch is protected by a single bolt. The second bolt (if I remember correctly) is off the belay to prevent a fall directly onto the belay.
Shannon Falls
RSS Feed
