Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>
There is an excellent parking lot available (thanks to the BC Climbers Access Society, I believe), but people continue to park in the residential areas anyway.
This route climbs the steepest section of the Neat and Cool crag and is named for the now barely readable graffiti at its base.
The steepness of the route, the slippery start and fiddly initial protection makes this route a stiff lead for the grade. It initially diagonals up and left on a finger rail, then traverses back to the right on big holds. At the end of this traverse an underclinging jamming crux leads to a fine but all too short hand crack.
Protection
A couple of medium nuts and finger sized cams (maybe even tricams) protect the start. Hand and fist sized cams for the remainder. Bolted anchors are easily found at the top. The bolts are set up for belaying, not lowering, so walk off the back side.
i'd disagree with the poster. the rock is not slippery, and the gear is bomber and plentiful.....its about .10a if you're used to bolts, if you're not, it'll feel a bit harder due to the steep nature of the route.
By Peter Spindloe Administrator From: North Vancouver, BC Nov 11, 2007
It's funny, I did it again a few weeks ago and found it pretty straightforward and not slippery this time. It must depend on the day, the humidity, how you feel, etc. Nevertheless, there have been some serious accidents on this climb so some people find it tough some of the time.
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