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Bugaboo Spire

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North East Ridge 

Bugaboo Spire

Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Oct 3, 2006
Administrator: Peter Spindloe
Views: 7,721 page views

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Bugaboo Spire, looking at Northeast ridge.


Description 

This is one of the most impressive spires in all of the Bugaboo's hence the name. From the Applebee campground the highly visible east face looms steep and nearly blank with only half a dozen or so routes. Viewed from the top of Crescent Spire one gets a great look at the classic Northeast ridge and the entire spire as it shoots into the sky like a sharks tooth.


Getting There 

Most of the routes on the Bugaboo Spire are accessed via the Crescent glacier which is an easy hike from the Kain hut and Applebee campground. From the Kain hut head north toward the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col and turn off before the Col as if heading to the Crescent Spire. From Applebee hike north out of camp onto the moraine and follow the same route as if going to Crescent Spire. The east face is obvious on both approaches. To get to the Northeast ridge follow the same approach as above and continue up slabs to the Bugaboo-Crescent Col. All remaining routes on the south and west faces are approached by the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col.



Featured Route For Bugaboo Spire
Vista on the lower part of the route.

Kain Route (South Ridge) 5.6  International : The Bugaboos : Bugaboo Spire
By way of the N. lateral moraine of Bugaboo glacier and snowfield to the Snowpatch-Bugaboo col above which the S. arete is followed. Scramble up ledges easily for more then 500' to the base of a steep chimney where the rope is put on. Climb chimney (120';two leads; strenuous) to crest of ridge leading to base of formidable gendarme. Two leads on the gendarme reach groove where belay is established for the crux. Leader moves up...[more]


Add Photo Photos of Bugaboo Spire
Summit panorama looking southwest

Summit panorama looking southwest

Bugaboo Spire seen from the SW

BETA PHOTO: Bugaboo Spire seen from the SW

The Vowell Group and Glacier from the Bugaboo-Crescent Col.<br /><br />

The Vowell Group and Glacier from the Bugaboo-Cres...

Bugaboo Spire from near the saddle between it and Snowpatch.

Bugaboo Spire from near the saddle between it and ...

Bugaboo Spire taken from the wrong approach chimney for the Northeast Ridge. The Kain Route is the ridge on the lefthand skyline and the Northeast Ridge is the on the right.

Bugaboo Spire taken from the wrong approach chimne...

The summit of Bugaboo Spire as seen from near the top of the Kain Route.

The summit of Bugaboo Spire as seen from near the ...