Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>
There is an excellent parking lot available (thanks to the BC Climbers Access Society, I believe), but people continue to park in the residential areas anyway.
Begin up the wide and somewhat broken corner. Wander up increasingly steep terrain past a nice section of gentle finger crack to a decent stance. The fire up the final cruxy section of vertical finger crack. I found this to be suprisingly tough and slightly pumpy, and longer than it looked from the ground.
Location
Up, Up and Away is left of Witch Doctor's Apprentice and Power Windows, just around the corner from Crime of the Century. The final finger crack is obvious from the trail.
Protection
Standard rack to 2". The lower section of the climb eats nuts, saving finger-sized cams for the final section.
By Peter Spindloe Administrator From: North Vancouver, BC Dec 18, 2008
My first exposure to this climb was making the 911 call after someone nuked their ankle falling near the top. It's a fun climb, but place the gear in the upper crack. It's pumpy, but probably better not to run it out if you don't have strength to stick a cam in.
I wish I had had my camera handy once we had the guy on the ground an waiting for the rescue group with the litter. His shoes were "X-Rays" from Five Ten. Having a picture of the swollen, bent ankle, with the word "X-Ray" on the tongue of his shoe would have been priceless.
I messed up my ankle last June. Ended up hobbling down the trail to the car-People looked at me as if I were a ghost. Wish I could have gotten a picture of their faces.
The top crack section is a bit harder than it looks. I put a piece about neck high. It was solid and held but enabled me to deck out. If I would have "Nut-Fished," and taken some time to really place a piece (higher) I probably would not have hit so hard.
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