Diedre climbs a small right facing dihedral on the right side of the central slab. Over 100m of consistent laybacking on nicely textured rock make this climb very popular; arrive early or be prepared to join a line.
P1. Begin up a low-angle slab to a horizontal break with a tree. Make a few face moves to a left-angling crack system and follow it up before making a slightly downward traverse across a small face as the cracks end. Follow a second crack system to an anchor on a ledge. 5.7, 55m.
P2. Climb a short distance above the ledge and make a slabby traverse across the face to the left. This unprotected pitch is hardest at the beginning, then eases before reaching an anchor on a good ledge. 5.6, 15 m.
P3. Layback and smear your way up the corner, making a move over a small step partway up. End at a semi-hanging belay. 5.8, 45 m.
P4. Continue up the obvious corner. Ignore the incipient calf cramp. 5.8, 50m.
P5. The climbing eases somewhat as the angle of the dihedral lessens. Belay at a nice ledge. 5.7, 50 m.
P6. The crack in the dihedral becomes a small seam and dissappears just as the angle of the wall becomes most forgiving. Smear and stem your way up to Broadway, overcoming a tricky bulge onto the ledge. The gear on this pitch is notably small and fairly run-out. The final move is easy to protect. 5.8, 40m.
Location
Follow the trail from the parking lot past the toilet. Head left until reaching a 3rd class gully heading up and right. Climb the gully, then continue up the subsequent ledge system to the right, climbing a 3rd class step to a final ledge system which leads up and right to the low angle slabs of the south apron.
To descend: Continue up the Chief to more adventure, traverse Broadway ledge to the south to walk off, take the 3rd class slab descent, or, in a fix, rap the route (double ropes required).
Protection
Gear to 2", emphasizing stoppers and small cams. Bring nothing larger than a #2 camalot. If you want to sew the route up, doubles of small to mid-size stoppers and a few doubles of cams below 0.75 will serve you well. A pink tri-cam works well in a flaring scar on the final pitch. All belays are bolted.
By Bobby Hanson From: Salt Lake City, UT May 10, 2007
One can link Pitches 2 and 3 (as they are described here) with a 60m rope.
By ben kenobi From: Moab, UT May 13, 2007 rating: 5.7
Diedre also makes a good first simul-climb. The rating is easy, the gear, aside from the runout slab portions, is plentiful and solid. And it'll get you past the multitude of parties that commonly choke the route's belay bolts.
By vegastradguy From: Henderson, NV Jun 27, 2007 rating: 5.8
have fun, but be careful if its wet. the top out is really wet right now and felt pretty spooky, but at least the gear is good.
great climb, would have been a 5 star route if it had been dry!
Really fun as a start to Ultimate Everything. We linked p1+p2, p3+p4, and p5+p6, but note pitch lengths as so nicely described above: this involves a fair amount of simulclimbing, at 5.8 (though it's quite soft at this grade). Bring as many finger-sized cams as you want, or perhaps a double set of stoppers - it eats pro!
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