Two pitches of a beautiful 5.8 handcrack lead up to the base of the steeper headwall. These pitches can be combined with a 70m rope or a little bit of simul-climbing. There are 2 bolts at the top of this pitch and several sets of rap slings, so it is possible to descend from this point. I found it most comfortable to belay from the large tree a few feet below the bolts. Next climb the amazing 5.10b handcrack in the huge corner strait up, then traverse left to a tree with rap slings. Belay here if rope drag is bad, if not continue up another 40 feet of easy ground to the base of a large, featured left-facing corner. This is 5.10 a with a 5.8 chimney finish, but this pitch is almost always climbed in one pitch.
Location
From the top of the approach trail walk left along the base of the wall past The Great Game, and onto a large slab with an obvious, worn handcrack.
Protection
One set of cams up to a 2 or 3 camalot, and a set of nuts, plus 10 or 12 trad draws.
By Michelle Cronk From: Bellingham, Washington Aug 1, 2006
After climbing the long 5.8 pitch, climb the short and beautiful corner and traverse LEFT. Finish with the last pitch in the far corner. This route is wonderful for the grade. Well worth the huff to the Squaw. Enjoy!
The Squaw
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