St. Vitus' Dance 

FA:  Robin Barley, Gordie Smaill 1974 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9 [details] Length:  4 pitches, 600 feet Season:  Summer, Late July, August Views: 847 page views Submitted By: Michael G. on Jul 22, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Pitch 2 on St. Vitus' Dance this climb has three e...

Description 

P1 From the base of the Apron climb up trees and cracks 5.7 to the base of a beutiful 5.9 jam crack. There is a small square of carpet on this belay assuring you are on route. Climb a nice 5.10a right facing dihedral with thin gear and mantel left at the top to a ledge this is the direct variation and should be done. This next pitch is a long pitch starting with nice hand jams steepening at the top into a wide fist offwidth crack. Its tempting to place a big cam at the top although I find saving a #3 Camalot for the belay essential. This pitch ends on a small ledge below 3 prominent cracks climb up starting on the left crack to an obvious traverse, across the crack systems proing as you go. This is the crux pitch its exposed and the best on the route. (5.9) The final pitch from a ramp climb up to a 5.9 hand jam roof that I thought was 5.8 although stellar fun its very short and then climb up easy slab for the rest of the rope and find a belay near the top of the Apron. I would recommend that you then continue up memorial crack a beutiful 5.9 crack off of memorial ledge to The Squamish Buttress to summit the Chief and make it a nice full day.

Location 

This route starts on Baseline Ledge, hike from the parking lot staying left at the top of the hill and follow it out along the base and up. (I would recommend buying a guidebook Kevin Mclane recently Published an awesome extensive guide to Squamish)

Protection 

Single rack Camalots 0.5 to #3 doubles on #2, and a #3 maybe a 3.5. Some small cams i.e. Aliens, TCUs are usefull, and of course a full rack of nuts.

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Kevin Vallely on the last pitch of St. Vitus Dance...

Kevin Vallely on P1 of St. Vitus Dance.