Squamish is simply fantastic and features endless, perfect granite climbing that is basically roadside. If you want to crag, no problem. If you want to climb a 15 pitch classic, no problem. Squamish has it all, including lots of rain. Just hope it doesn't rain (much) during your visit and you'll love the place.
Getting There
From Vancouver, negotiate your way out of town (confusing), and follow the scenic 99 (Sea to Sky Hwy) north along the eastern flanks of the Howe Sound for around 70 km (44 mi) to Stawamus Chief Provincial Park, just south of the small town of Squamish. Allow about 1-1.5 hours driving time.
Camping
At the base of the Chief: http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/stawamus.ht>>>>> This area is literally a one minute walk to the Chief (Campground Wall), five minutes to the Grand Wall boulders, and ten minutes to the base of the Grand Wall. The treed ambiance and cooking area make this a nice place to base yourself. It's about a thirty minute walk into town for groceries, meals etc, and perhaps forty minutes walk to the Smoke Bluffs.
Just across the street from Shannon Falls: http://www.klahaniecampground.com/ Maybe ten minutes to the Shannon Falls climbing and twenty minutes to the Grand Wall. It's about ten minutes further from town than the camping at the base of the Chief.
This is just a sampling, suggest more in the comments if you wish.
Groceries: Nester's Market in the plaza at the intersection of Cleveland and Hwy. 99.
Pub: The Howe Sound Inn&Brewing Co. right at the very end of Cleveland Street. This is very popular hangout with climbers and other outdoor types. The food is also very good, much better than your average pub fare.
Breakfast: The Mountain Burger House at Cleveland and Pemberton (a few blocks past the plaza) serves great "traditional" breakfasts: eggs, bacon, toast, skillets, omelettes, etc.
Yorkshire Gripper climbs the beautiful cracks up the center of a blunt prow to the left of Crime of the Century. Expect fairly solid finger jamming to a well-defined crux where the crack peters out. Beta alert: I received the excellent advise to dispense with pro through the crux section. Simply load up the crack before the crux and punch through the crux moves without thinking of pro. After the crux, you should get a pretty good stance from whic...[more]
Climbing in Squamish Smoke bluffs Boulder gully This is an area close to the parking lot and often overlooked. Cold comfort and Picket line were fun 9's with solid gear. Smoke Bluffs Wall Zombie roof area Laughing crack 5.7 a perfect intro to trad 1 pitch wonder. Takes great gear and has good stances. Mosquito Area Mosquito/ Phlemish dance is a fun 2 pitch 5.8 link up. More climbs above.
Solid granite cracks, tons of variety and always an escape from the crowds if you are willing to hike 45 minutes to the backside of the Chief. Start early to avoid lines if doing anything on the Apron as it can get crowded quickly. Kevin McLane's guidebook is, in my opinion, the best guidebook ever. Ratings are soft so feel it out for yourself. I recommend The Snake (Apron), Diedre (Apron), Angels Crest (Shield), Solarium (Backside of The Chief) and Octopus Gardens. You can't help but have fun here!
With the recent rate of expansion and development in the Squamish region it is important to be aware of the rules in regard to camping in the area. If you are a seasonal user please be aware that the rapid growth has put a lot of pressure on different user groups. In the past, Squamish has been a low-key mecca for summer cragging, and it still is.
As a user group, climbers in Squamish have enjoyed a (mostly) positive relationship with the community. It is important to maintain that relationship.
If you are coming to Squamish for all or part of the summer you should be aware of the situation regarding camping outside of designated areas. There is a lot of incorrect information floating around and hopefully this information will help people to better understand land use issues in the area.
According to Bob Cunneyworth, the Compliance & Enforcement Officer with the B.C. Integrated Land Management Bureau, camping outside of designated areas inside of the Squamish municipality is not permitted. This is basically the area between Murrin Park to the south and Conroy Creek to the north(well past Brackendale), the Squamish river to the west and the Watershed to the East (several kilometers past the Squaw). if you are unsure of these boundaries check with City Hall when you arrive. Outside of the municipality camping on "Crown Land" is technically not legal, although the law is seldom enforced. If you need to camp in the "backcountry" a strict Leave-No-Trace policy is mandatory.
The Squamish Access Society works with the community to ensure that the relationship between climbers and the city is positive. Climbers maintain a positive relationship with the non-climbing public in Squamish because we have always been able to police ourselves.
The Chief Campground and others are affordable, particularly when a pad is shared amongst a few friends.
Please, if you come to Squamish, respect the rules, stay in designated campsites. The days of free camping are sadly gone. A lot has changed in Squamish with the rapid pace of development and growth. Not everyone who lives here these days is sympathetic to climbers, and will jump at the slightest chance to point the finger.
Squamish is a town in transition and if climbers are to have any say in the direction that Squamish goes, it will be necessary to maintain a positive community presence.
No matter where you are from, if you are a guest in Squamish, please try to remember that there are people who have spent their lives here to ensure that our resources stay accessible for all. Please respect their hard work.
Ultimately, what you do in Squamish is up to you. For those of us that call this area home I would urge you to please try and minimize your presence if you should choose to live outside of the normal structure.
Squamish is quickly becoming a suburb. It is a very critical time here. There are people who do not value the same things as we do. Those people own property and pay taxes. Only through solidarity of purpose and action do we as climbers function as an entity.
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