Kangaroo Corner 

FA:  1978: Peter Croft and Tami Knight Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.11a [details] Length:  1 pitch, 50 feet Views: 269 page views Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Mar 22, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Just past the crux of Kangaroo Corner.

Description 

This is a short route with perhaps twenty feet of 5.11a climbing right off the deck followed by another ten feet of 5.8. Despite that, the climbing is good and worthwhile. The crux is sutained finger-tips with tough laybacking and stemming.

This route is often cited as a good first 5.11 gear lead. I think that it is, as long as the leader does place adequate protection (since it's tough right off the deck).

Location 

This is the right-facing dihedral immediately right of the drill holes from where the cliff was blasted.

Protection 

Small finger-tip-sized Stoppers and a small cam or two for the crux. A few medium Stoppers to finish. Bolted anchors can be found near the top of the cliff.