This is a probably a Squamish top-ten short route on most people's lists.
Its two pitches are themselves reasonably short, but it's often done as a single long pitch (probably not possible with a 50m rope, but 60 is fine). You can rap twice or bring a second rope and do one long rappel.
The crux comes shortly after the first belay station and requires careful smearing while reaching between small but good finger locks.
Location
This is the first distinct crack right of the Peasant's Route dihedral, which is right of the Apron Strings dihedral system. It looks short from below, but don't be fooled.
Protection
Excellent the entire way. Primarily small nuts and small cams up to tight hands. Take lots of them, especially the nuts, and especially if you're going to link the two pitches. You probably won't need a hand-sized piece until the final fifteen feet, by which time the difficulty has eased somewhat.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Mar 18, 2006
Great climbing. I did it on a *hot* day and nearly melted... which made the crux off the belay challenging. Small, solid finger locks on slippery feet is the name of the game here.
For me it was one of the most memorable climbs in the area. I pink pointed this route with a dislocated toe and with one foot in a tennis shoe while the other was in a climbing shoe. Talk about slippery! Solid finger locks will get you to the top.
Spectacular Route! If it's warm get on it in the shade.
By Peter Franzen Administrator From: Portland, OR May 26, 2008
Magnificent route. The crack eats medium sized nuts and is enjoyable throughout. We walked up to it in the evening as the sun was setting on it and enjoyed perfect temps after a hot day.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Jun 30, 2008 rating: 5.10c
The bottom pitch can be a little wet. Small fingers like mine combined with a little moisture make the two pitches feel about the same in grade. Run the two together for 1 very high quality 45+ meter pitch.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Aug 15, 2008
Rad climb. Did it one pitch. The crux is good fun... poor finger lock, good finger lock, repeat for 30 feet. Fiddling gear in through the crux portion definitely requires energy.
By orclimber From: Portland, OR Jan 31, 2009 rating: 5.10c
Local beta says stay high at the crux on P2. use the crack for your feet, and use face holds above for hands.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Jan 31, 2009
orclimber wrote:
local beta says stay high at the crux on P2. use the crack for your feet, and use face holds above for hands.
Gear: Worth saving a very large nut or #1 camalot for the last 10 feet. Exquisite, especially for tiny hands: perfect finger-locks and ring-locks the entire well!!!
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