This is a probably a Squamish top-ten short route on most people's lists.
Its two pitches are themselves reasonably short, but it's often done as a single long pitch (probably not possible with a 50m rope, but 60 is fine). You can rap twice or bring a second rope and do one long rappel.
The crux comes shortly after the first belay station and requires careful smearing while reaching between small but good finger locks.
Location
This is the first distinct crack right of the Peasant's Route dihedral, which is right of the Apron Strings dihedral system. It looks short from below, but don't be fooled.
Protection
Excellent the entire way. Primarily small nuts and small cams up to tight hands. Take lots of them, especially the nuts, and especially if you're going to link the two pitches. You probably won't need a hand-sized piece until the final fifteen feet, by which time the difficulty has eased somewhat.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Mar 18, 2006
Great climbing. I did it on a *hot* day and nearly melted... which made the crux off the belay challenging. Small, solid finger locks on slippery feet is the name of the game here.
For me it was one of the most memorable climbs in the area. I pink pointed this route with a dislocated toe and with one foot in a tennis shoe while the other was in a climbing shoe. Talk about slippery! Solid finger locks will get you to the top.
By vegastradguy From: Henderson, NV Jun 27, 2007 rating: 5.10c
Get on this thing! Take 3 purple camalots (or equivalent), and lots of stoppers and finger sized stuff. nothing bigger than a #1 camalot.
Do it in one pitch- set a bomber piece after the first belay and fire through the crux.
Outstanding, one of the best 5.10 pitches i've done- this thing is like a friendly Serenity Crack!
Grand Wall Base Area
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