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Freeway 

5.11c

   

FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11+ [details]
Length: 11 pitches
Views: 2,125 page views

Submitted By: Jesse James on Mar 13, 2006


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Falcon nesting closures are usually in effect from March 15 to July 31. MORE INFO >>>

First Traverse


Description 

This is a super classic line, and a must do for the grade. The climb is very sustained with only a few pitches less than 5.11. I am describing the original finish, but express lane is the preferred finish.

P1, Slab climb past several bolts to a belay at a tree (10d).

P2, Steep corner with two bolts to bolted belay (11b).

P3, climb daylight crack(fists) for a bit then traverse down and right along slopey ledge to a bolted belay.

P4, climb long left facing corner with two distinct cruxes to a bolted belay (11c).

P5, Another long pitch climbing corner then face to the truck stop ledge below a large roof (11a).

P6, climb through the awesome roof out to the left (11c).

P7, Traverse straight right from the belay, then straight up on face holds (11a).

P8, Down and right to a short corner, up then right to a finger crack, leading to a belay below a large roof (10c).

P9, Left up thin cracks then right to belay at deep corner (11a).

P10, Climb offwidth corner (10a R).

P11, climb the steep bolted arete to the top (10d).


Protection 

Fixed anchors at every belay



Photos of Freeway Slideshow Add Photo
First of Two Roofs

First of Two Roofs

Autoban- Second Traverse, EXPOSED

Autoban- Second Traverse, EXPOSED

Brad just past the crux on P2 of Freeway.

Brad just past the crux on P2 of Freeway.

Brad nearing the end of P2 on Freeway.  While the lower half of this pitch is technical, the upper section is physical, with some good jamming.

Brad nearing the end of P2 on Freeway. While the ...


Comments on Freeway Add Comment
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By Scott McLeod
Aug 1, 2007

Brilliant line. Bring your "A" game. This climb has it all! crack, face, slab, well protected, bold, etc. I think that the crux can be different for everybody because of this.

Great climb!

By Evan Stevens
Sep 10, 2007

A few key variations to the beta here, which make this route even better.

p1: Skip it via the fixed line to the right.

p2 and p3: Link together no problem. p2 is 11a.

After the Autobahn (the traversing pitch above the roof) do the express lane finish, not the original, way better! Step down and right off the belay, but then up and then back left to the occasional bolt. 4 bolts in total where you need them, but 5.10- where there are no bolts. Heads up. Continue up the bolted face and arete to the top in one 50m pitch.

By Peter Spindloe
Administrator
From: North Vancouver, BC
May 19, 2008

Freeway Lite is a popular variation that ends at the top of P5 as described above. Although the overall grade of the Lite version is the same as the overall route, it's considerably easier simply due to having fewer hard pitches to do. It's especially popular because of the Raptor Closures that make the pitches above the Truck Stop off limits until the end of July.

The climbing is fantastic; hard but well protected with lots of variety and sustained at a solid level between the distinct cruxes.

By Greg Cameron
Jul 3, 2008

First ascent was by Tom Gibson and Rob Rohn - 1979 (I was there).

By Michael Ybarra
From: on the road
Aug 18, 2009

I think Freeway Lite gives you all the best pitches from the full route (Express Lane version), except maybe the roof pitch.

To rap Freeway Lite, you'll need two ropes.

Also, gear up before climbing the jungle-style 3rd class since the slopping, moss-ledge belay at the start of P2 isn't a great place to do so and you don't want to leave packs there since the rap route doesn't take you back there.