This is a super classic line, and a must do for the grade. The climb is very sustained with only a few pitches less than 5.11. I am describing the original finish, but express lane is the preferred finish.
P1, Slab climb past several bolts to a belay at a tree (10d).
P2, Steep corner with bolts to bolted belay (11b).
P3, climb daylight crack(fists) for a bit then traverse down and right along slopey ledge to a bolted belay.
P4, climb long left facing corner with two distinct cruxes to a bolted belay (11c).
P5, Another long pitch climbing corner then face to the truck stop ledge below a large roof (11a).
P6, climb through the awesome roof out to the left (11c).
P7, Traverse straight right from the belay, then straight up on face holds (11a).
P8, Down and right to a short corner, up then right to a finger crack, leading to a belay below a large roof (10c).
P9, Left up thin cracks then right to belay at deep corner (11a).
P10, Climb offwidth corner (10a R).
P11, climb the steep bolted arete to the top (10d).
Brilliant line. Bring your "A" game. This climb has it all! crack, face, slab, well protected, bold, etc. I think that the crux can be different for everybody because of this.
A few key variations to the beta here, which make this route even better.
p1: Skip it via the fixed line to the right.
p2 and p3: Link together no problem. p2 is 11a.
After the Autobahn (the traversing pitch above the roof) do the express lane finish, not the original, way better! Step down and right off the belay, but then up and then back left to the occasional bolt. 4 bolts in total where you need them, but 5.10- where there are no bolts. Heads up. Continue up the bolted face and arete to the top in one 50m pitch.
The Dihedrals
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