Squamish 

Climbing in Squamish
Smoke bluffs Boulder gully
This is an area close to the parking lot and often overlooked.
Cold comfort and Picket line were fun 9's with solid gear.
Smoke Bluffs Wall
Zombie roof area
Laughing crack 5.7 a perfect intro to trad 1 pitch wonder. Takes great gear and has good stances.
Mosquito Area
Mosquito/ Phlemish dance is a fun 2 pitch 5.8 link up. More climbs above.

Solid granite cracks, tons of variety and always an escape from the crowds if you are willing to hike 45 minutes to the backside of the Chief. Start early to avoid lines if doing anything on the Apron as it can get crowded quickly. Kevin McLane's guidebook is, in my opinion, the best guidebook ever. Ratings are soft so feel it out for yourself. I recommend The Snake (Apron), Diedre (Apron), Angels Crest (Shield), Solarium (Backside of The Chief) and Octopus Gardens. You can't help but have fun here!

ATTENTION!: SQUAMISH CAMPING REGULATIONS

With the recent rate of expansion and development in the Squamish region it is important to be aware of the rules in regard to camping in the area. If you are a seasonal user please be aware that the rapid growth has put a lot of pressure on different user groups. In the past, Squamish has been a low-key mecca for summer cragging, and it still is.

As a user group, climbers in Squamish have enjoyed a (mostly) positive relationship with the community. It is important to maintain that relationship.

If you are coming to Squamish for all or part of the summer you should be aware of the situation regarding camping outside of designated areas. There is a lot of incorrect information floating around and hopefully this information will help people to better understand land use issues in the area.

According to Bob Cunneyworth, the Compliance & Enforcement Officer with the B.C. Integrated Land Management Bureau, camping outside of designated areas inside of the Squamish municipality is not permitted. This is basically the area between Murrin Park to the south and Conroy Creek to the north(well past Brackendale), the Squamish river to the west and the Watershed to the East (several kilometers past the Squaw). if you are unsure of these boundaries check with City Hall when you arrive. Outside of the municipality camping on "Crown Land" is technically not legal, although the law is seldom enforced. If you need to camp in the "backcountry" a strict Leave-No-Trace policy is mandatory.

The Squamish Access Society works with the community to ensure that the relationship between climbers and the city is positive. Climbers maintain a positive relationship with the non-climbing public in Squamish because we have always been able to police ourselves.

The Chief Campground and others are affordable, particularly when a pad is shared amongst a few friends.

Please, if you come to Squamish, respect the rules, stay in designated campsites. The days of free camping are sadly gone. A lot has changed in Squamish with the rapid pace of development and growth. Not everyone who lives here these days is sympathetic to climbers, and will jump at the slightest chance to point the finger.

Squamish is a town in transition and if climbers are to have any say in the direction that Squamish goes, it will be necessary to maintain a positive community presence.

No matter where you are from, if you are a guest in Squamish, please try to remember that there are people who have spent their lives here to ensure that our resources stay accessible for all. Please respect their hard work.

Ultimately, what you do in Squamish is up to you. For those of us that call this area home I would urge you to please try and minimize your presence if you should choose to live outside of the normal structure.


Squamish is quickly becoming a suburb. It is a very critical time here. There are people who do not value the same things as we do. Those people own property and pay taxes. Only through solidarity of purpose and action do we as climbers function as an entity.

Thank You.

thanks guys, i think im gonna go to squamish instead, gonna try again early next summer. thanks for the advice.

anyone know if Angels Crest is dry I am planning on climbing it June 13

A quick note for Squamish camping:

Camp sites at the Chief campground are no longer $10 each. It is now $10 per 2 people regardless of how many people are crammed onto one site. This makes camping quite a bit more expensive, and it is no longer advantageous for people to share their sites with others. Kind of a bummer, but I'm sure it's netting the campground quite a bit more money.

I'm thinking of heading to Squamish from mid June until early August. How much does it rain during this time period?

Jake,

Normally, Squamish gets progressively drier from June to September. Mid-August is usually the driest - but you can get a nice stretch of weather anytime in the summer. Here's a weather chart, it might help.
Cheers, Dave Jones
squamishclimbing.com
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What is the best guide book to buy for Squamish, chek, and whistler area?

Howdy!

I'm visiting this summer as well, i have a 40 pound happy dog, can anyone tell me what the scene is like for a dog owner? are dogs allowed in the campsites or on the trails? Don't worry, i'm a responsible dog owner...

thanks for any tips!

jon

Hi Jon

Here is what the Stawamus Chief Provincial Park website says about dogs:
Pets on Leash
Pets/domestic animals must be on a leash at all times except on the Chief Peaks trail. You are responsible for their behaviour and must dispose of their excrement.Backcountry areas are not suitable for dogs or other pets due to wildlife issues and the potential for problems with bears.
www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/stawamus/#Manageme>>>

In addition the Squamish Assess Society (squamishaccess.ca) has posted this note:
In 2008 additional signage regarding park policy on dogs was posted at several trail heads in the Chief boulders. It was the first step by Parks to communicate a ramp-up in enforcement of the on-leash rule. With the huge increase of users since the late 1990s, Parks has become especially concerned about the number of dogs left off leash. Reported incidents of people being bitten, dog excrement among the boulders and on trails, dogs barking and fighting and running through re-vegetation zones have increased the need in Park’s eyes for enhanced enforcement. Expect heightened enforcement this season; Parks does have the authority to ticket.

The SAS supports the on-leash policy and asks that dog owners abide by the Park rules so that they and others can enjoy it to the fullest.

Smoke Bluffs Park is a popular place for locals for dog walking. I believe dogs must be onleash.

cheers,
David Jones
Squamish Climber
squamishclimbing.com

ahh! just realized that Squamish is missing Cheakamus! Has to be one of the best sport climbing areas around Squamish .. more info on www.projectclimb.com/442CA16B34084F046585/a/climbing/Cheakam>>>

It's here: Sea to Sky Corridor

Dividing up complex areas isn't an exact science. In this case, the Squamish area is just the crags right around town.

As I understand it, the area you're referring to is Chek rather than Cheakamus, which has yet to be added to MP.com.

It will be a sad day when people can no longer legally live anywhere for free. Thankfully you can still live for free without being harassed in Squamish. Enjoy it while it lasts I guess.

Looking for grade 4 scrambles within an hour of Horseshoe Bay.

Jesse, one option would be The Lions. I don't know too many off hand, but I imagine the Sky Pilot group might provide some.

Some feedback after a week in Squamish...

It's an expensive place to live, even for a short time.

The Zephyr Cafe is overrated. Get breakfast at Chef Big D's. Quinoa cereal vs. sausage-filled omelet with black bean salsa, hash browns, and toast.

The library provides free internet access, but make sure you check in at the counter.

The Howe Sound brewery is awesome, but expensive.

In northern Squamish, there is a pub called The Shady Tree: unappealing bar food and cheap beer. Avoid it.

Save-a-lot is a better grocery store than Nester's. Unless you like spending more money.

Skywalker and Diedre will have long cues to climb on any dry day. Start at 7am or wait until 2pm.

You will be competing for climbs on the classics. Think about climbing elsewhere, like the Papoose, or the Malamute, or the Bulletheads. Not the Smoke Bluffs, or the Apron, or Squamish Buttress.

The cost of camping at the Chief campground is $8 per person, per night. Every single site was full when we got there - a Thursday in August. We didn't bother to check again.

It is $33/night (one vehicle, two people) to stay at Klahanie Campground. This includes a laundromat, showers, and close proximity to busy train tracks. You will be woken up in the middle of the night if you try to stay there without paying. Not recommended.

It is not technically legal to sleep in your car apparently anywhere in Squamish. We didn't meet anyone who'd gotten in trouble for it though.

The sport climbing on the Malamute, and probably most of the areas on or around the Chief, are all friction-style climbs. We top-roped some 10s, which was enough to get the idea. If you want to climb that friction stuff, go do something on the Apron.

Grades on the classics seem a bit soft. I was able to on-sight several 10a's, which I've never been able to do before.

The weather is really temperamental. It might drizzle, it might piss down, it might be super-windy, it might be gray and overcast, it might be sunny and hot, and it might all happen in the same day. And this was in August!

To sum it up, Squamish is a wicked awesome climbing area where you will meet lots of really cool people, climb lots of really great stone, eat really good food, all in a really majestic setting. Take the time to step back and appreciate all that this area has to offer.