Smeagol 

FA:  J.Josephson & B Spear, June 1996 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9 [details] Length:  3 pitches, 320 feet Views: 21 page views Submitted By: Rich Kelly on Sep 12, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Looking up Smeagol from ground. 3rd pitch is the p...

Description 

Smeagol gets better as you climb higher. Pitch one moves through lots of shattered rock that felt scary. The 2nd pitch followed a very pleasant corner. The business is the 3rd pitch as it shoots directly up the leftmost exit crack passing through three overhangs, the 2nd one being the crux of the climb. Both p2 and p3 are well protected. P1 felt X to me since it was my first pitch I ever led/did at Yam.

P1 - 35m, 5.7 PG+ climb thin crack left of Gollum Grooves corner, continue carefully up and right to ledge below slabby wall with hollow flake. Climb flake to bolt and either go left (best) or right (loose groove) to belay.

P2 - 35m, 5.8 Up corner and near top, move left under a bulge, then up to ledge and move right over bulge and then continue up to fixed belay beneath the exit crack.

P3 35m, 5.9 Climb exit crack pass 3 roofs, the 2nd one being the hardest, to the top of Yam.

Location 

Starts just left of the prominent left-facing corner system of Gollum Grooves in the East End section of Yam. Look up and left of the corner and you'll see steep exit cracks. Smeagol takes the leftmost one.

Protection 

Double ropes recommended. Trad gear up to 3.5" and lots of slings.

Add Photo Photos of Smeagol

Dave finishing P1. Notice all the loose stones ly...

2nd pitch corner