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Alberta

Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Apr 15, 2007
Administrator: Peter Spindloe
Latitude: 50.9307  Longitude: -114.8730 
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Description 

Alberta is the epicenter (or epicentre) of Canadian Alpine climbing with countless snow and ice covered peaks, glaciers and famous north faces. Alberta is also famous for some of the best ice climbing in the world.

Fortunately, Alberta is also well rounded and has sport and trad rock climbing a-plenty. The limestone and quartzite in the river canyons in the Canmore area probably have Canada's greatest concentrations of sport routes. Trad cragging is perhaps a little more limited than some other areas as the limestone of famous peaks like Yamnuska have great history and great routes but less solid rock; the climbing is more adventurous than a granite-trained tradster might be used to.


Getting There 

Calgary provides easy access to Canmore, Banff, Lake Louise and all of the surrounding areas. Edmonton provides access if your destinations are further north.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Alberta:
East Ridge   5.3 Mod. Snow     Trad, Snow, Alpine, 5000 feet, Grade III   Jasper National Park : Mt. Edith Cavell
North Face - Chouinard/Beckey/Doody   5.7 Mod. Snow     Trad, Snow, Alpine, 12 pitches, 5000 feet, Grade IV   Jasper National Park : Mt. Edith Cavell
Browse More Classics in Alberta

Featured Route For Alberta
Looking up the route, Aug 06.  The left side of the route is almost vertical on top, with a small cornice left from the winter before.

Centre Ice Bulge Direct WI3  International : Canada : ... : Mount Fay
The second biggest strip of ice from the east (left) side of the mountain. Cross the 'shrund at the place of most convenience for you and start climbing this calf burner. The ice starts out at a low angle and ramps up the higher you climb, up to about 60/70 degrees depending on which line you take. There may be a cornice on the top, and definitely watch for rocks falling down along the sides of the route. When I did the route we simulclimbed...[more]   Browse More Classics in International


Photos of Alberta Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up at the East Ridge of Mt. Temple, one of the Fifty Classics.  Please, somebody with a better picture/scan, post it so I can remove this one.

Looking up at the East Ridge of Mt. Temple, one of...

Standing on the Athabasca Glacier with Mt. Andromeda in the background, sometime in the fall of 2001.  The curving snow face is the very popular Skyladder route.

Standing on the Athabasca Glacier with Mt. Androme...

The south face of Mt. Temple showing the east ridge (right skyline) and the walk up route on the left sun-shade line.

BETA PHOTO: The south face of Mt. Temple showing the east ridg...

You got to love this place, even the routes that I have failed on I love more then the routes that I have finished.  And you can't beat the views from the tent!

You got to love this place, even the routes that I...

Above the morning fog.  <br /><br />On the Athabasca Glacier.

Above the morning fog.

On the Athabasca Glacier...


On thee Athabasca Glacier.

On thee Athabasca Glacier.

North Face of Athabasca

North Face of Athabasca

Athabasca North Face

Athabasca North Face

Sunset on the North face of Mt. Assiniboine

Sunset on the North face of Mt. Assiniboine


Comments on Alberta Add Comment
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By Joseph Stover
From: Chistchurch, New Zealand
Nov 9, 2007

What is the climbing like around Edmonton? I am a warm weather dude, so can I handle it? How is access from the city... drive times for day cragging? Is there a full range from steep sport to long well protected trad of all grades?

There wasn't an International forum, so i'll see if anyone catches this and has info.

Thanks!

By Peter Spindloe
Administrator
From: North Vancouver, BC
Nov 12, 2007

This site has relatively few contributors from Alberta, especially from the Edmonton area. I wish I could help you, but perhaps the best thing will be to check out the local gyms and shops. It would be great if you could post what you find. The climbing I've done in Alberta has been great and it would be fantastic to see more contributed to this site.