This excellent testpiece begins in the center of the back wall of the Pharos.
P1: Begin on Kingdom Come's crack and traverse up and left towards a small corner (crux). Continue up into the Judgement Day traverse, performing its crux mantle, and then head straight up to a good belay ledge. 90', 5.11b.
P2: Step airily out to the right to a finger crack and follow this up, generally staying just left of the arete. 100', 5.10+.
The crux, about 25' off the deck, was the scene of one of my scariest moments climbing: I headed up off the ground on pumpy terrain and got my first piece, a 0.75 Camalot in a slot, about 20' up and just before entering the crux sequence. Needing this slot for my hand, I wiggled the cam around a bit until I had room for my my fingers, and then climbed up past it. I didn't realize that I had actually dislodged the cam with my fidgeting until an accidental bump with my toe sent it sliding down the rope to the ground. I remember my belayer saying something like, "Don't fall," to which I screached in sweaty-palmed, cruxing terror, "I KNOW THAT!!!" Fortunately I made the next few moves and was able to fish in another piece.
The Pharos
RSS Feed
