Watchtower Crack 

FA:  Fahey, Jackson, Batty, & Bull - 1965 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.8+ [details] Length:  4 pitches, 300 feet Views: 302 page views Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jan 28, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Neale Brain

Description 

Watchtower Crack is perhaps the most obvious line in all of Mount Arapiles: A wide crack that launches up a huge, soaring right-facing corner for over 100 meters. The climb is typically done in four half-ropelenth pitches. My partner and I did it in two rope stretchers (70m cord recommended). Described here as three.

P1: Begin at the base of the corner formed by the Watchtower and the right Watchtower Face. Avoid the chossy start up the chimney by climbing the slab to the right. Belay on a large ledge right of the corner..

P2: Head up the corner system to a belay on ledges/chockstones in the cave-like chimney.

P3: Crux. Continue up the chimney until pulling out of it to the nice corner. Pass a little rooflet and continue to the top. This pitch has some tricky, slick moves as the crack becomes difficult to jam.

Protection 

Standard rack plus a few bolt plates (keep your eyes peeled for two or three carrots).