The Bluffs

The start of Final Departure, 27, a classic of the...

Description 

The Bluffs are perhaps the largest, most prominant features at Arapiles. They are a series of buttresses that extend out from the back of the Mount forming the right wall of the Central Gully. Bluff Major is the largest and furthest back of these, followed by Bluff Minor which sits in front. Several smaller formations are also encompassed in this area, including John's Pinnacle, Bard Buttress, Fang Buttress, and the Plaque Area (the last three of these being listed separately).

Climbing ranges from long moderates to short, difficult testpieces. Must do lines include Blockbuster (5), Missing Link (9), Scorpion (10a) and Scorpion Corner (11b), Quo Vadis (10b), Thunder Crack (10c), Kama Sutra (11+), Despatched (12a), Station to Station (12b), and Final Departure (12d). Grades are YDS.

Getting There 

Approaches vary depending on what part of the formations you are going towards, but the vast majority are approached via the Ali's scrambling route... this passage is on the north side of the Bluffs facing the campground. One can also pass through the bluffs via Ali Baba's Cave, a tunnel through the formation. On the other side is a long ledge system called Flinder's Lane. Many high quality routes begin from here, which is just on top of the Tiger Wall. Descent from the top of the Bluffs is via rappel. Ali's can be reversed to reach terra firma.

Featured Route For The Bluffs

Missing Link 5.9+ PG13  International : Mount Arapiles : The Bluffs

Missing Link is the awesome, wandering face climb that graces the cover Mentz and Tempest's guidebook. Begin at the center of the upper face of Bluff Major, climb up and right, then back left and up to the summit, following a vague white streak the whole way. Rap from a fixed anchor. Rumor has it that Johnny Dawes TR'd this with no hands!...[more]

Add Photo Photos of The Bluffs

bluffs, thundercrack is the obvious overhanging cr...

The mega-classic "Anxiety Neurosis", 26.