The Sinestro starts near the base of a steep, loose 4th class gully that you approach from the east. A couple raps and a lot of scrambling bring you to the base.
Pitch one begins at the base of a slabby ramp that ascends to a steep, but short, headwall with a technical and thin crux(6b). From here, easier climbing arrives at a belay ledge.
Pitch two ascends through a strange bulge/step around to the right and into a beautiful steep dihedral, which ascends to a fixed bit of tat and a short pendulum into another crack system roughly 4m to the right. Belay just below the pendulum point. Don't put any gear in the other crack until you are above the pendulum point! Climb up this crack to a belay ledge above. (6a)
The third short pitch ascends the blocky double cracks above to a decent stance. (6a+)
The following (4th) pitch ascends a long splitter fist crack at a head wall. Steep and sustained, this will be the crux(6b) for many. Big handed people will find the crux bit to be baggy hands. The guide recommends 3 x #4 friends....but we did it with one #3 and #4 Camalot, although we did run it out quite a bit on this pitch. There are big fixed wooden pins in the easier climbing above... Don't worry, they're not as sketchy as they sound. Arrive at a big ledge with a 70m rope, other wise this will be two pitches.
The next(5th) pitch is a huge traverse to the east along a ledge and step system. There is perhaps one difficult bit to contend with near the middle of the traverse. Lots of loose rock, so beware. Run the rope right to the end, we used a 70m. Belay at a ledge.
One short low 5th simul-climbing pitch arrives at the final pitch below the summit block. Dump all your gear except a few draws here.
The final pitch ascends the bolt ladder of the Via Normale, which goes free at 6a.
Descend from the summit via fixed raps via the Normal route and the east face.
Retreat from the upper pitches would be problematic with a single rope, although doable.
Location
The Sinestro Total is found on the west face of the Torre Principal.
Protection
Doubles from Green Alien to #2 Camalot. Most parties will want to take at least two #3's and one #4, but one of each is fine. Stoppers. 70m rope recommended. 8 alpine draws/slings.
Torre Principal
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