Last Gringos Standing 

FA:  Jesse Huey, Toby Grohne-March 2008 Type:  Trad, Alpine Consensus:  5.10+ [details] Length:  15 pitches, 2000 feet, Grade V Season:  December-March Views: 142 page views Submitted By: Neil Kauffman on Sep 30, 2009 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: The West Face of St. Exupery. Last Gringos climbs ...

Description 

This is an excellent crack route with lots of quality hand jamming. The crux is a thin corner on pitch 6 which has not yet been freed due to icy cracks. The first 8 pitches are sustained 5.10 cracks linked together with a 5.9 black dike traverse between crack systems. The route then joins the Austrian Ridge for 300m to the summit.
See the American Alpine Journal 2008 for Jesse's description.

Location 

Southeast face of Aguja St. Exupery, starting 100m below the Exupery-De La S notch in the major gully.

Protection 

Doubles to 4", extra hand-sized pieces.