|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, 250'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||Hans Wehrli, Bill Briggs, Joan Griffin|
|Submitted By:||Peter Gram on Jul 2, 2002|
|Comments on International Chimney||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Eric Almquist
Jan 31, 2003
|I agree that the top is 5.8 not 5.6. With double ropes, some protection can be set up across the "chimney" from the incipient groove that leads to the top. This protection is better than nothing, as it will prevent a horrible slide down the chimney.It's a great climb, and a fabulous view on a clear day.|
By Tyson S Arp
Apr 11, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
When I climbed this route, I did the traditional 5.6 second pitch that starts from the southern end of the corridor. Though it looks unlikely, it is possible to get in some small gear and then throw yourself into the squeeze chimney. Ten to fifteen feet of grunting later and you'll find and easy scramble to the summit. I got a good chuckle when reading the new Extreme Angles guidebook to the Needles because they rate that move into the squeeze chimney 5.9! Though the leap was a bit freaky and committing, I didn't think it was anywhere near that hard.
Visit my website for more on this climb.
By B. Climbin'
Jul 10, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
|Got a chance to climb this with Peter Lev, which is like getting chance to visit the moon with Neal Armstrong as your guide. Awesome route! I took the last pitch that starts just a few feet from the rap chains on the first pitch. The secret gear is a number 4 Black Diamond stopper in a very small, not-so-obvious crack on the face before you start the committing moves on the last pitch. You can even place this piece of pro before you start climbing. Get up onto the face about seven feet up and toss a number four black diamond cam deep in the crack and you are home free to hand jam your way up one of the most unique crack systems I have ever encountered. This entire climb is completely enjoyable even if it is a tad bit scary.|
From: Rapid City, SD
Sep 22, 2013
|Don't be afraid of the final pitch even with its R rating its really not that scary. The R part is probably 5.7 for about 10 feet then you can plug in a number 3. Once you plug in your good gear you face the crux, a really really tight squeeze for 3 feet. the rest of the route has good gear and no real run-outs.|