Intermediate Trad Route Recommendations for Devil's Lake
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We'll be passing through Wisconsin on Tuesday, August 4th and I have just that one day to climb at Devil's Lake. I lead trad up to 5.9 (Gunks, Daks, CT, NH, Red Rock). Would someone please recommend a great area and routes to fill one day? |
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East Rampart has some classics in that range like:
Brinton's Crack Breakfast of Champions Chicago Birch Tree Crack Upper D If you're feeling good you could try Sometime Crack too. Also, the most important recommendation would be to dip in the lake at the end of the day :) |
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Consider it considered, Dylan! What's good in the 5.7-5.8 range? |
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Kurtz- |
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On the same formation as False Alarm Jam is Double Overhang, which is super fun. Both of them are long routes. Downclimb the back of the formation to descend. |
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Leading trad for my first time at the Lake a few weeks back I can second some of the routes already listed, and also think Jolly Roger is pretty worthwhile. It's great straightforward climbing that's well protected with a nice 5.6 right next to it. |
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I think that James probably meant to recommend Full Stop and Peter's Project instead of Two Pines Buttress and Many Pines Buttress. |
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e-m-p wrote:I think that James probably meant to recommend Full Stop and Peter's Project instead of Two Pines Buttress and Many Pines Buttress. You might also consider Vacillation on Two Pines Buttress. Sometime Crack is an excellent choice if you're looking for something harder -- it protects well and is overhanging enough that you're not likely to hit things on the way down. I would rather lead it than some of the "easier" suggestions here (Chicago or even Upper D).e-m-p, You are correct about my intentions, I will update. As for Vacillation...that thing is terrifying! |
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Vacillation is not terrifying! James is just being a big sally. |
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jon jugenheimer wrote:James is just being a big sally.It's how I live my life. |
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Also, if you're coming in from the South you might consider taking the Merrimac ferry |
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The replies just keep getting better (and more useful)! |
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A couple moderate East Bluff classics not mentioned that I really like. |
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Trip report? What did you actually get on? |
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We're just back from the Upper Midwest. As planned, we climbed D.L. on Aug 5th and had a great day. The Park is really quite beautiful and I wish we had more time to explore. We pulled into the CCC lot to find about 75 young campers about to try rock climbing for the first time. YIKES!! We needn't have worried. Their guides were considerate and it was fun to climb near them (kids say the funniest things when climbing).
Thanks again for all the beta! Let me know if you're in my area (Central CT and the Gunks) and I'd be delighted to reciprocate. |
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Sounds like the easy route you lead was Anemia (5.3) and the chalked crack you were unsure of sounds like Peters Project (5.7). Looks those up and see if that's looks right. |
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Bingo! Those are the routes. There must have been a bunch more pine trees than I noticed. Peter's Project was a sweet climb. |
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Sweet well you managed to get on one of the best 5.7s at the lake. Uber classic! |