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INTERESTED IN LEARNING MUILTIPITCH
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By Kenan
Oct 4, 2012
Shelf Rd

NickinCO wrote:
Pick up a book and READ and LEARN like others recommended, and don't expect someone to hold your hand. If you want to know what's safe put some effort in and find out for yourself and stop relying on someone else to tell you. The excuse I hear often, "I don't know anyone to show me" is bullshit.


I have to respectfully disagree here. While there is truth to the notion of taking personal responsibility, I don't think a book is going to be more useful to a beginner trying to learn the important nuances of multipitch climbing than a day or two of guiding with a good guide. There are so many details. Your life (and your partner's) is at stake. An experienced and talented guide can hone in quickly on exactly where the client stands and what techniques they need to focus on. It can give them valuable insight on common mistakes, etc... things that could otherwise take years to pick up. I read several climbing books over the years (including Freedom of the Hills, John Long's anchor book, Craig Leubben's book, ...). I also took Eli Helmuth's trad leading seminar when I started getting into more multipitch stuff.. It was 2 full days out at Eldo and the things I learned over those 2 days were absolutely priceless... It catapulted my trad climbing like reading a book never could. Of course everyone learns differently, so books might be better for some. And very importantly, a shitty guide that teaches incorrect or unsafe techniques might be worse than no training at all.

...which is a perfect segway back to the other topic... What's up with the dude hanging by his feet above the American Death Triangle?! Classic. Definitely ADT photo of the century


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By Sir Wanksalot
From County Jail
Oct 4, 2012

Kenan wrote:
...which is a perfect segway back to the other topic... What's up with the dude hanging by his feet above the American Death Triangle?! Classic. Definitely ADT photo of the century


The funniest part is I can't for the life of me figure out how that was easier than just clipping both bolts. Even better would be if he fell and sheered off the hangers... I'm sure there were more bolts below him.

I have read post's from that guy, he's the type of guy that is never wrong. That usually isn't condusive to learning... or teaching for that matter.


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By dice magee
Oct 4, 2012

I posted this to learn how to do muiltiple pitches on sport route not have people arguing or sell me something lol


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By Sir Wanksalot
From County Jail
Oct 4, 2012

steven joseph wrote:
I posted this to learn how to do muiltiple pitches on sport route not have people arguing or sell me something lol


Dude,
If you want to learn multi pitch on sport routes, learn how to tie into the anchor and belay from above. BOOM your done! There is a two pitch sport climb that is like 5.5 in RRCOS, go start there.

Start on this

continue on this


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By Jonny d
Oct 4, 2012

Steven,
When I was at the same place some years back, I bit the bullet and paid an AMGA-certified guide from American Alpine Institute to show me the ropes. Somehow, reading things out of books never really translates as well for me as actually doing it. This was money well-spent, and I've never regretted it-- and actually created a long-term friendship with the guide. I can't crank 5.14s or put up Grade VI routes in exotic locations (or even spray about doing that), but I've got enough skills to feel and be competent on easy-to-moderate trad multi-pitch. When I feel like I want to learn something new that's a big step away from where I am, I'll hire an AMGA guide. If a website for a climbing school touts "professional guides" but doesn't also tout their AMGA credentials, I'd be skeptical. I'm not saying you can't be a good guide without the letters, but it's at least an indicator that they've had some level of quality training, themselves. Do yourself a big favor and spend some time in the mountains with an AMGA-certified guide. If you're in CO, check in with Colorado Mountain School and ask for some time with Steve Johnson- great guy, great guide.


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By dice magee
Oct 4, 2012

All I really need to know how to do is anchor into bolts and belay from top.... And I shouldn't have a problem.... Anchoring into the bolts is that the same as if I were going to clean a route..


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By Jonny d
Oct 4, 2012

steven joseph wrote:
so i know how to lead climb and lead belay and also belay and top rope of course well i want to learn how to do muilti pitch stuff and learn the proper and safe way to build an anchor point and how to belay and what not..."

Five Days Later:
steven joseph wrote:
All I really need to know how to do is anchor into bolts and belay from top.... And I shouldn't have a problem.... Anchoring into the bolts is that the same as if I were going to clean a route..


Sounds like you've got it wired, then.


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By Dankasaurus
From Lyons, CO
Oct 4, 2012

Get a clue how to write coherent sentences is my advice. Capitalization, spelling, and punctuation help internet folks to respect you, even if you're saying stupid things.



steven joseph wrote:
All I really need to know how to do is anchor into bolts and belay from top.... And I shouldn't have a problem.... Anchoring into the bolts is that the same as if I were going to clean a route..


steven joseph wrote:
I posted this to learn how to do muiltiple pitches on sport route not have people arguing or sell me something lol



steven joseph wrote:
Dang I posted this too get help from an experience climber THAT CLIMBS SAFE even if it seems really stupid on all the safety stuff but I want to make sure that everything is safe and right





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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Oct 4, 2012
Bocan

Jonny d wrote:
Five Days Later: Sounds like you've got it wired, then.


Must have taken a class down in the Springs...


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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Oct 4, 2012
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.


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By dice magee
Oct 8, 2012

I'm so confused on what is going on. I guess all it takes to climb multipitch stuff is to learn how to belay from above.... I'm not doing any trad climbing just sport climbing so I know how to anchor into the both bolts.. Now I take it I pull the rope up until I have the climber below me on belay. Then just do the same thing as belaying below but now I'm on top..


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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Oct 8, 2012
Epic free solo with a pack on

you're probably GONNA DIE


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By Larry S
Oct 8, 2012
The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.

See this thread from June.

First Time Multipitch


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By Princess Mia
From Vail
Oct 8, 2012
Chillin' at City of Rocks

steven joseph wrote:
I'm so confused on what is going on.......... Then just do the same thing as ......... below but now I'm on top..



Yeah you should be confused! Switching position like that is not for a beginner, but with an experienced partner you may learn. If she is patient.........


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By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Oct 8, 2012
Stabby

Princess Mia wrote:
Yeah you should be confused! Switching position like that is not for a beginner, but with an experienced partner you may learn. If she is patient.........

Is the use of flour involved?


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By Medic741
From Pittsford, New York
Oct 8, 2012
When I was a bum at Frey

And also how to bail safely/use your equipment.

What happen if you're using a guide/reverse and your follower pulls a roof falls and needs to be lowered?

How do you manage a pulled rope getting stuck?

How do you manage when you throw a rope and one end is way longer than the other on rappel, and now you're mid air and don't know what to do?

What happens when you drop your belay device and now have to belay the rest of the pitch and then rappel?

Know your shit.

Or... Just call sar because without these skills someday you will.


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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Oct 8, 2012
Bocan

steven joseph wrote:
I'm so confused on what is going on. I guess all it takes to climb multipitch stuff is to learn how to belay from above.... I'm not doing any trad climbing just sport climbing so I know how to anchor into the both bolts.. Now I take it I pull the rope up until I have the climber below me on belay. Then just do the same thing as belaying below but now I'm on top..


I take back what I said. You should take a class. If you try to learn by asking questions like this, you are going to hurt yourself or your partner.


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By Andrew Yasso
Oct 17, 2012
Top of Rainbow Buttress

In regards to splitting up a single pitch climb -->

Big Ears wrote:
are you kidding me? how on earth would that be helpful?

Big Ears, splitting up a single pitch of a trad climb is a common technique for practicing transitions. Not all climbs are appropriate for this, however many climbs have multiple ledges along their length, especially climbs in the 5.0-5.6 range. Transitions can be practiced on 4th class terrain even, as long as there is adequate gear placement for practicing building anchors.

The benefit to doing this, is that ideally one of the partners is the more experienced leader. This person can be 15 feet below, helping to give tips to the person above as they are practicing the transition. Even if the partners are of equal experience, two minds and sets of eyes are usually better than one.

This style of practicing transitions also puts focus on the system and not the climbing. It is possible to break the right 80-foot climb into 4 pitches, giving the leader/partnership many opportunities to become more efficient.

Just my thoughts on this technique.


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By RockyMtnTed
Oct 17, 2012

What an obvious troll.... And its funny so many of you bought right into it.


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By dice magee
Oct 18, 2012

RockyMtnTed wrote:
What an obvious troll.... And its funny so many of you bought right into it.

please help me to understand what a troll is??


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