|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 220', Grade II|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]|
|FA:||Kim Miller, Jim Knight - February 1977|
|Submitted By:||bsmoot on Nov 22, 2007|
|The Approach borders on a private area of land adjacent to the church Archives. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Intensive Care||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
May 10, 2010
|indeed, long live the wasatch!|
By Stevie Nacho
Jun 2, 2010
Don't sweat checking out the last bolt. We're going to stuff in a rawl when we go up on this slab again.
From: SL UT
Jun 3, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
|Hey all, the bolt has been replaced, and the route has been restored to its original direct finish. 250' to the small mahoganey. Offset nuts are worthless in the upper seams, but a single blue metolius offers a key protection piece. Its hard to imagine a better pure slab climb. Climb on lovers of routes of yesteryear!|
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 28, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
|The second pitch is the crux. Pretty well protected during the crux, but the top traverse into the final fist crack has a couple thin 5.10ish slab moves with no gear for a very long distance - ledge fall probable. Be sure you have spent some time training for slabs before you do this route.|
By Jim Knight
Sep 27, 2014
|slight correction worth mention... Ted Higgins also contributed to the FA efforts. In fact, he was with Kim and I when Mark Ward suffered his concussion. And thanks to Ted (being the largest of all) he was able to practically carry Mark down.|
5 days ago
This route offers an advanced clinic in pure slab climbing, and I relied on all the skill sets I learned from many years down at Suicide Rock in Cali. to do this with no falls.
You'll need a #2 Camalot to protect the difficult step just to get on to the slab proper on the first pitch. I think the most dangerous part of the entire climb is getting to the first bolt, because a fall in the 5.10+ move to do that clip will pitch you over 30 feet on to a granite hammer.
There is a hands down stance about 15 feet below that first bolt...and I get the run-out/commitment/scary/bold thing, but the FA team could have easily drilled a bolt here. I've put in routes on lead, hand drilling, and when I got to a good stance, I sank one...just sayin'...That horrific fall was unnecessary.
You can do this route by pre-clipping that first bolt on rappel from top of the first pitch of Shock Trauma...but...if you do it that way, then just be honest when you say yu "sent" the route, cuz' you really did not. That first clip is a huge component of the entire character of this route.
Enough of the whining...the route is spectacular, and leading this clean gives you a BS...Bachelors in Slab...with distinction.
Here's some tips for sending hard slab:
Keep that ass sticking out... Stink Bug Style,
Do not over reach...keep the hands local,
If your feet start to slip then straighten out your elbows,
Drop the heel if you get the Elvis Shakes,
Wear your chalk in the front..or one on each hip,
Do Not "kick start the Harley" with the feet...just plant the toe and pour
weight into the shoe,
Stand hard on them toes and smedges
Put a thick dabble of chalk on the back of your hand
for a quick "drive by" chalking,
Do slabs in the cool shade,
Completely freeze all body parts except the one that is moving
...isolate movement...lock ankles.
Think of yourself as climbing in a circle...
and as you move upward you bring new holds into the circle...
forget about the run-out...
it has nothing to do with the moving circle.
Compared to the .11c slabs at Suicide, like "Season's End" or "Winter Solstice", the .11a rating for Intensive Care is spot on.
If you lead this route, then head on down to Suicide, The Mecca of hard slab, and climb its analog: "Rebolting Development", also .11a, also bad fall potential on the first pitch, also scary with hefty run-outs, and has also sent climbers to the hospital.
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