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Instant Gratification 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Mark Stevenson
Page Views: 540
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Sep 6, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Description 

Scramble up to reach the high first bolt. Climb to a ledge, scoot out right and climb up easy rock to gain the 2nd clip at the lip of an overhang. (You don't want to blow this clip). Climb up the short left facing corner of the overhang making another quick clip and follow jugs to a stance at the base of a crack in the face. Climb the crack making good use of far spaced locks to make a long reach to the ledge before the overhanging white wall above (crux). From the ledge, head up and left aiming for a large flake above. Shimmy behind the flake to its top and escape out right on good holds. Clip the last bolt and head straight up over broken rock for about 20 feet to the finish. This is a nice route, but there's some loose rock and in the easier sections the bolts have some space between them.


Location 

From the approach trail, head right for a few hundred yards along the cliff. This route begins on the right side of an open book on orange rock behind a large boulder.


Protection 

9 bolts, shuts.



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By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Mar 16, 2012

I've heard a lot of people compare this route t the very best .11s in the area, like Satisfaction Guaranteed, Legacy, and Bimbo Shrine. I did not think it was that good. Still, worth doing if you're in the area.

By ShockSLL
From: Charlotte, NC
Jul 14, 2013
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

The first edition Mike Williams guide lists this as having 10 bolts and not 9. But as of 7/14/2013, the 9 bolt count listed here is correct.

By Sam Stephens
Jul 16, 2013

A geat route for sure, but no legacy. Worth the trip none the less. A great wam up for the harder routes or just a good ride any time.

By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Aug 24, 2013

So, two friends had gotten hosed by this, so I thought I'd mention- at the very too, above the detached pillar, there is another bolted route that cuts off left. Don't take this; go right.