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The Left Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A White Bread World T,S 
Blade Runner T 
Bloomin' Union T 
Bus Stop to Nowhere T 
Butternuts T 
Central Scrutinizer  T 
Dihedral of Dagmar T 
Dirty Deed T 
Earth Diver T 
Earth Puller S 
Flashflood T 
Follow your Doubt T 
Fool's Progress T 
Giardia Crack T 
Guacamole T 
I'm On My Bike T 
Insomnia T 
Inz and Outz S 
Mental Health T 
Midwestern Gangster T 
More Anus Than Heinous T 
Morticia T 
Most Excellent T 
Nervous Breakdown T 
Ninja Warrior T 
Noggin 'Nocker T 
Original Sin T 
Outrageous T 
Phlegm Of Fury T 
Pyrrhic Victory T,S 
Righteous Dump T 
Rising Sun T 
Slaughterfall T 
Smoke Big Doobs, Suck Big Boobs T 
Spite and Malice T 
Suzie and Ishmael Do the Nasty T,S 
Sword, The T 
Terminator T 
Thick and Thin T 
Tombstone T 
Turkish Tickling T 
Tyrant, The T 
Uncle Fister T 
Vertebrae T 
What are you on? T,S 

Insomnia 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Daniel Miller, Darren Singer
Page Views: 449
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Sep 6, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Insomnia

Description 

Insomnia is a heady lead, with steep, thin, and runout climbing on the menu. Start as you would for the Terminator, but at the top of the pillar, move left over blocky terrain towards the roof. Expect hard climbing for a bit, but it backs off a bit at the top.

Location 

To the left of Terminator, and to the right of Spite and Malice.

Protection 

Small/medium wires, small TCUs or equivilent, and whatever else you might need.


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By Matt S
May 23, 2011

the start now has a pin but it only really protects the moves getting ONTO the death block. so dont fall OFF the death block.
By Clay Mansfield
Jan 7, 2015

The pin can be backed up with a micro offset nut if you're into such things. Crux protects great, but if you fall off the block beforehand, you're gonna get banged up. Feels like a significant step up from Blade Runner in the seriousness category.

I'd recommend hauling up doubles from 00 to #2BD, a single #3BD, and stoppers (including tiny).