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What are you on? 

Insomnia 

5.11 PG13

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Consensus: 5.11 [details]
FA: Daniel Miller, Darren Singer
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Sep 6, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Insomnia

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Description 

Insomnia is a heady lead, with steep, thin, and runout climbing on the menu. Start as you would for the Terminator, but at the top of the pillar, move left over blocky terrain towards the roof. Expect hard climbing for a bit, but it backs off a bit at the top.


Location 

To the left of Terminator, and to the right of Spite and Malice.


Protection 

Small/medium wires, small TCUs or equivilent, and whatever else you might need.



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By Matt S
May 23, 2011

the start now has a pin but it only really protects the moves getting ONTO the death block. so dont fall OFF the death block.

By Joel Unema
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 16, 2012

Rock is quite friable...exploding crimps can produce a fall off the death block. Fortunately good gear is found just above said death block. Perhaps the only route at the waterfall that I have not enjoyed.