This fine crack climb starts at the chain anchor below the slab climb called Smearing for Jesus. Approach via Weak Stick(5.8),120ft. Climb above the chain anchor and clip the first bolt of Smearing For Jesus, cut right and climb a hand crack that runs along an arete to the right. Pull onto the arete below a bushy chimney(5.10a). Climb the flairing/leaning crack along the blunt arete. Go past a prominent white dike and into the wide chimney system above past a granite mattress(tread lightly). Climb the thin, right-leaning crack on the left sidewall of the chimney (be sure to protect adequately for the follower) Go straight up the steep, widening hand crack above. At the top step left and belay from the anchor of Smearing For Jesus. Be sure to place a directional anchor at the top of the hand crack before going left to the chains.140ft.
|By Milton Mugambe|
Jan 16, 2010
This two-pitch route has more hand jams than all the routes at the Leap combined... almost. If you like hand jams do yourself a favor and climb this fine climb. Milt
|By Ryan Curry|
Apr 25, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
The second pitch of this climb is super fun. It's an inobvious feature when viewed from below, but once you pull into the crack it reveals stellar jamming interspersed with fun knob tugging. An excellent addition to the Wood Hood. Thanks Milt and Mark!
Feb 18, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
This is a nice route, great jams and a bit of route finding, fun, fun! I agree with the 9+/10a rating.