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Walk past "Slipstream" to the "Full Tilt" ledges. This is the left chimney of the huge detached tooth that forms "Full Tilt". Climb up a short easy corner to the top of a flake. Stand on top of the flake and burrow into the secure chimney. There is a cool cave behind the tooth. Climb to the top of the tooth and back out on the face to a chain anchor. Belay here and toprope "Full Tilt" or continue up a thin crack with incipient pro to ledges and more climbs.
This climb has pitches below and above which are dirty and less traveled.
A few cams. The squeeze section is secure but unprotectable.
Sep 3, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The other pitches are totally fun and worthy, but they do need some more traffic to help clean them up, especially the first pitch chimney. But it'd be a classic if more people got on it (and the chimney didn't scare folks away). That first pitch is probably 5.8 if I remember right. It's been a while since I could convince anybody to climb it with me!
Jun 23, 2015
Tried to take the right-side approach up the messy dihedral/gully (Porno book) as described in Jacksons' North Tahoe guide. I wouldn't recommend this, very dirty and confusing where to break off back left.
Anyone have more beta on the left-side ramp approach? Rope or no? Easy 5th class?
I'm also interested in trying the full climb, but not sure where the 2nd pitch crosses the runout slab - seems like there is a lower right wider crack full of plants, and an upper left thin crack, anyone know which to follow?