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End of the Road Rock
Select Route:
B & E Bluff T 
Inside Flush T 
Poker Face T 
Two of a Kind T 
Women's Work T 

Inside Flush 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FFA Ernie Johnson and Skip Harper in '93
Page Views: 481
Submitted By: Brian Scoggins on Jul 16, 2009

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Description 

A fun big hands to fists to wide crack up a nearly vertical wall. Start from a ledge inside the corridor and climb a crack as it steadily widens to offwidth just before a ledge (easier for bigger hands). Getting onto the ledge is the crux. You can either continue up an offwidth/squeeze straight up, or exit right onto the finish Two of a Kind. Either way, belay in the alcove behind the squeeze. It is highly recommended, if you do the squeeze, to either run it out, back clean, or use Big bros, to prevent a snag while pulling the rope.

Location 

From the base of Two of a Kind, look left into a corridor. Inside Flush is the hand crack that passes to the right of the big chockstone.

Protection 

SR to 5", with a couple spares in the big hands-fists size. I didn't place anything smaller than a #1 camalot, including the anchor.


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By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Jul 16, 2009

I have used the Kelman guidebook grade here, although this route felt closer to mid-range 9. I just spent the previous 10 days sport climbing, so my crack grade recognition skills are probably off.
By Skip Harper
Dec 11, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

'Inside Flush' was put up (FFA) by Ernie Johnson and Skip Harper in '93 (the same day we did 'Inside Straight' and 'Poker Face'). There's more to the route than one finds on 5.9 climbs, including shuffling slightly difficult jams, both hands and feet, and a couple of 'strenuous' crunch moves. We both lead it and came to the same (independent) consensus as to the grade. I might consider 10a, but probably not on flash lead. Incidentally, Kelman's guidebook gives appropriate route 'authorship', whereas Orenczak does not.
By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Dec 12, 2009

Then clearly I was just feeling really strong that day. Also, if you have smaller hands, the off-width starts much lower. For me, I was able to get good jams until almost the last move before the big horizontal break. I did hang on that move, so maybe 10a is a reasonable guess, I just don't typically 1-hang 10a offwidth. Its a fun route, and a great warmup (alongside Inside Straight, across the way, which feels pretty similar to Plumbline) for Women's Work.
By slim
Administrator
Dec 13, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Did you 1 hang this one?
By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Dec 13, 2009

I did. Mostly because I got sucked in so much, which led to that primal switch that leads to throwing in waaay too much gear right where you don't need it. I hung instead of sacking up, pulling the cams, and doing the move.

By comparison, I got my ass kicked on Mainstreet this last summer. Couldn't even do the crux on toprope. Offwidth is a technique that typically eludes me, but this didn't feel hard enough to be 10a offwidth.
By slim
Administrator
Dec 13, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Isn't Vedauwoo your home crag? I would think you would be honed at the wide. That would be pretty weird if overhanging slopers and figure 4s were your forte!
By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Dec 14, 2009

The problem is finding partners who want to learn the best way to thrutch. I've been focusing a lot on fingers, but mostly I've been having difficulty finding motivated partners when I didn't have to work.