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BETA PHOTO: Insecticide
Killer route! Do it if you can climb anywhere even close to the grade. Very sustained through the first five bolts and extremely technical. Start on 5.11 moves right off the ground, delicately and gruelingly making your way to the second bolt. Grab the small crimps in the crack, go for the one-finger crimp out right just before the overhand, and then dedpoint the undercling just under the 3rd bolt. Get high feet, clip, then pull over into the dihedral for a no-hands rest. Continue up to the 4th bolt and then learn just how technical this route actually is. Once you pull the crux and get to the 5th bolt, pull easier terrain to a nice ledge. Look back and admire how bad ass you are for sending this great and hard route, then try not to blow the redpoint pulling the final easier but-still-pumpy 5.10 moves.
Apr 15, 2015
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Best route at the crag through the first five bolts. It's a little chossy after that.